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June, 2008

In Colombia

Valentina in Cartagena
6/1

We have been working hard for the past two months on projects on the boat, and getting a whole lot done, but, not getting to play as often as we like, so this is a letter to our children.

     To the tune of

Hello Muddah, Hello Faddah - Letter from Camp Granada

 

Hello Sons....Hello daughters, 

Here we are at....Cartagena

Cruisings very....entertaining 

And we think we’ll have some fun - if it stops raining.

 

We went searching....at Home Center

For more supplies....bolts, and thinner.

You remember....our friends Queen Mary

They went to Bonaire but for us - it was quite airy

 

So we stayed and…..did some sewing

It’s much better....than home mowing

We miss Texas....our sons and daughters

But, we sure like living out here - on the water.

 

Hola Sons....Hola Daughters

How's our nietas?....and their bruddahs?

Give them big hugs....and a big kiss.

While cruising, that is what - we surely do miss.

 

No Snorkeling....or fishing daily

We are just about....to go crazy

But we're OK….Please don’t worry

We are safe and sound and trying - just to hurry.

 

We would rather ....Be in the water

Now,  it is raining....and it gets hotter.

We just can't wait.....to get this work done

To get back to the islands -- this is no fun.

 

Just a side note....in years to come

We may have to.....become a bum

So start planning.....build a small house

Or, we will have to live with -  you and your spouse. 

 

Now we’re getting....projects completed,

Solar panels....that were needed

Making power....from the hot sun

Charging the batteries and not running the engine.

 

Wait a minute....it’s stopped raining!

Jobs are done now....no more complaining!

To the islands....gee that’s better!

Sons and daughters,  kindly disregard this letter.

Love,

Mom and Dad

P.S.   Obviously, we have not just worked, we have had some fun and time to change words to songs.   We are doing good.   We have gotten a lot done and soon to be "off to the islands" again.   We love and miss you guys.

♥       ♥       ♥       ♥       ♥

 

What a treat we had this afternoon!

We went over to visit our neighbors in the anchorage, Joel and Patricia on S/V Brahms, a 44' Gulfstar. 

Do you know what they have down below on their boat?

Place your mouse on the picture below of their boat and get a great surprise.....

S/V Brahms

 

 

A baby grand piano!

Joel at the keyboard entertaining us.   She is a beauty!   Sonny having fun...
  Their boat down below with the piano.   Patricia sitting at the piano.  

How cool!   Joel is a magnificent piano player and loves playing.  So, he purchased this piano last year in Ontario and had it trucked down to Miami, then put in a container on a ship to where his boat was in Aruba.

Previously, when we were first anchored nearby Brahms, we would hear concert piano music and thoroughly enjoyed the CD's our neighbor's were playing....but, then, it would stop, and start again, so we knew it was not a CD.   "He" was playing.  We had no idea, he was playing a baby grand piano.

Patricia is a gourmet cook and they have a business where up to 8 people can enjoy a meal on their boat and Joel will play dinner music.

Whatever you enjoy in life, you should do.   And, they are.

 

6/2 Today is  Monday, and, of course, another holiday in Colombia.  So, we invited Bianey, Yesica, Joselyn, and Elisabeth to go sailing with us.   They arrived at 10:30 a.m. at the dock  and we were underway soon thereafter.
Bianey and his wife, Yesica Elisabeth enjoying a hot dog. Dos Amigos....Bianey and Sonny

We went through the cut at Boca Grande and had 18 knots of wind and rolly seas.

We were trolling, hoping to catch our dinner for the evening, had to resort to chicken quesadillas.

Sailing....Elisabeth, Joselyn, and Sonny

 

Joselyn was great steering the boat. Bianey with his two daughters. Captain Elisabeth steered us towards the yellow building near the anchorage.  Good job.

We enjoyed having them for the day.  The girls steered the boat and Bianey caught fish on his hand line after we anchored.  They are such a good family.

6/5 We had decided to stay in Cartagena to get our annual medical tests done, and today is our last test.   We have to hang out Monday until we receive the final results, but, everything looks good and we are very thankful.

We went to McDonald's today to celebrate......that was our first hamburger (at a fast food restaurant) in......11 months.

Maybe that is why our medical tests are coming back good.    ☻

6/6 Today, we were going to change a simple water hose to the watermaker, but, when we got into the project, discovered the cleaning supplies under the sink had leaked and damaged the hose to the lavatory and shower, so we also had to replace that.

Our favorite street vendor is Beseata.   We buy papayas from her regularly.

Beseata and Sonny

The Colombian Navy has a tall ship that is 247' long, S/V Gloria in their fleet.   This morning, she went out to sea and there was such a celebration.  Bands, balloons, ships decorated with flags, ceremonies, and a boat parade.   We had front row seats in our cockpit.

Across each boom of the beautiful Gloria stood rows of men, dressed in the Colombian flag colors.  It was impressive.

Sailors on the S/V Gloria

 

6/7 Happy 33rd Birthday to our son, Taylor...... We Love You.....Enjoy!

 

Taylor with Riley Kay at a UT football game.
6/10

We have enjoyed our time in Cartagena and with so many friends aboard Respite, Bruadair, Soggy Paws, Icarian, Dragonet, Namaste, Brahms, GiGi, Eventure, and the local Colombians.

So strange, in a taxi in town with a horse behind you, between the buses.

We got things ready today to head out to the Colombian islands tomorrow.  We plan to be at Rosario's, Baru, and San Bernardo for a while, probably a month.  We will probably come back to Cartagena to reprovision and then back out to the islands.

I am not sure if I can find an internet cafe in the islands, but if there is, we will continue to update our logs.  But, until then, you can email us at our winlink address and we will get it on the boat.  We will update our "Where is Valentina" link on our homepage so you will know exactly where we are.

Talk to you soon......we are finally "off to the islands".....

6/11 We pulled up anchor at 7 a.m. this morning and headed for the Rosarios Island, about 20 miles away where there is clean, blue water.The ship on our port side....is actually anchored.

 

The Boca Grande entrance/exit to Cartagena is a  shallow, narrow cut.    In years past, Cartagena built a wall across the several mile opening right under the water for protection from enemy ships. 

 Buoy marking cut in the wall to Cartagena.In more recent years, they cut a narrow gap in the wall about 2 meters  (6.56 feet) deep for boats to pass through and placed two buoys, so you can pass between.  A tricky cut when your draft is 6 feet.

It was a good trip out, with dolphins to guide us along the way.Dolphins coming to greet us as we sail along.            Playing in Valentina's wake.

We arrived at the Rosarios at about 11 a.m. and were greeted by the local fishermen in their ulus selling crab, lobster and fish.   What a treat, it has just been too long!   We bought 2 crab, 1 lobster, and 3 small fish for 20,000 pesos (~ $11 US).

The fisherman named Treymundo, that we bought the lobster and fish from, had a bandage on his left hand.   We asked him what happened, and he pulled off his bandage.  A huge chunk of flesh was cut off his index finger.  The previous day, he snatched a moray eel, but we think the eel was the victor.   He also has a bandage on his foot, but is back out fishing today, with another moray eel in his ulu.   He said they are delicious to eat. No thanks.....but,  we gave him some medicine for his finger......ouch!Treymundo with his injuries from the previous day's moray eel.

We then hurried and boiled the crab and devoured it in the cockpit, then jumped in the clear water.   Nice, nice.Valentina in front of Isla Grande in the Rosarios.

The wind clocks around in a complete circle every day here.   At night, it is out of the north and the strongest breeze of the day.   Our anchorage is open to the north, with a reef between us, however, it did not protect us from the waves.   So, after a rocky night and little sleep, we decided to change anchorages tomorrow.

 

6/12 We dropped the dinghy and went exploring around the area.

Then, we pulled up the anchorage in search for a calmer, night's sleep.   We motored around the Rosarios and through the shallow cut that passes through the island.   We sure had some thin water, but we made it through unscathed.  We decided to go to Baru, where we know it is calm and protected.   It is only about 7 miles away, but dodged reefs along the way.

When we arrived in the anchorage, before dropping anchor, we were again greeted by three ulus hanging on to the side of Valentina, wanting to sell their mangoes, necklaces, fish, crab, and lobster.

We bought mangoes and a papaya.   After Wilson left in his ulu, he returned and said we did not pay him.   We thought it was a ploy to get more money, and finally paid him the money (again)  and told him firmly that we had already paid him and for him not to come to our boat again.

Afterwards, we discussed the situation, and in the confusion of anchoring and everyone surrounding the boat, all talking at once and wanting to sell their wares, we discovered we may not have paid Wilson for the mangoes.

 

6/13 On our dinghy ride this morning, we saw Wilson in his black and white ulu paddling across the bay, so we went over to him and apologized for the confusion.   He was very thankful and spent the rest of the day showing us around Baru, his modest home, introducing us to his sister (and her tienda), his son, and the Baru policemen.   He is a good guy and a good friend.Two Bueno Amigos....Sonny and Wilson

Sonny kept teasing him when he introduced us as his amigos. Sonny would say, "Amigo today, but not yesterday".

We visited the school and were very impressed.  It is a huge, two story building, clean, and brightly painted.   There were classrooms for internet (in a place where internet is scarce) and English. 

School in Baru A beautiful young lady peeking through the block of her classroom. The young man on the right drew this soccer field and players.

 

6/14 We are discovering very quickly here, that everyone is doing whatever they can...to get some money from the gringos.  They will try to sell you fish, lobster, crab, necklaces, paint your fingernails or pedicure, give you a massage, and even cook for you on your boat.  

It is a poor village and people are hustling just to make a living.  There is not a lot of opportunities for work here, so tourism is an income for the locals, and they have been very creative in their endeavors.  You are constantly asked for something.

Two ladies we met yesterday, Francia and Rosa, were at the dock and wanted to come out to Valentina, so Sonny went to pick them up and brought them out.  It was their first time on a sailboat.   Francia announced that Rosa had caught a big fish and that they wanted to come out tomorrow to our boat and cook fried fish, coconut rice, and patacones for us.   We were somewhat puzzled and asked how much it would cost, and they said, "nata".    We thought that was strange....only the two of them....on Father's Day....not bringing their spouses or children, and come out to our boat and cook....and for "nata".    So, hesitantly, we made plans and set a time.  When Francia got ready to leave, she asked for money to buy the fish.  We went ahead and declined their idea.

We cannot tell our Spanish has gotten any better in the past few months, we tend to use the same words that we are comfortable with, and know just enough to get us into trouble, at times.

 

6/15 Feliz Dia de Padre !

We had a great day on board Valentina today.  We met some more locals that live in Cartagena and come to their vacation home they are building in Baru on the weekends.   Ivan and his son, Felipe, rowed out to our boat in these beautiful  handmade canoes.   Ivan makes them as a hobby.   They are different types of wood, in strips, then he applies epoxy, fiberglass, and varnish.   They are just awesome.   He said, depending on the canoe, he sells them for 6,000,000 pesos, or ~$3,500 US.   A true work of art and love.

Ivan in one of the canoes he made. Felipe is a master rower. Lena in her dad's canoe.

 

Ivan, and his children, Felipe, and Lina (who is a student at Purdue in the US) all speak very good English.   It was so nice to talk to someone in English!   They come down from Cartagena (about 1 1/2 hour drive) every weekend and every chance they get.

Then we prepared our Father's Day meal.  Barbecue chicken, baked beans and potato salad, with chocolate squares for dessert.   It was delicious!

We swam to the shore to the nearby hotel to get a drink, then we snorkeled down to Ivan's dock, but he had already left to return to Cartagena for another week of work.

We had a beautiful sunset tonight.                        Life is Good!

6/16 Today, our friend, Wilson met us at our boat and he wanted to go show us the beach where he works.   He works on Saturday and Sunday raking and cleaning a nearby beach and gets paid 300,000 pesos (US ~$160.00) a month.  So, we agreed.

 

"That's what I call....a house with a view!"

Then, we went to "Mister's" house on top of the mountain to meet Roberto.   He is an ex-sailor who came to Baru, bought a piece of wooded property on top of the mountain, and discussed plans for a new home with a contractor.  After construction had begun, he realized the contractor was measuring in meters.....rather than feet.  

He is now the proud owner of a huge home, on top of the mountain, with an awesome view in all directions.  Not all mistakes are all bad.

 

Then, we went to the beach at Cholon, which is supposed to be the best place to eat in the islands. People come from Cartagena to eat and play on the beach here.
 

There are just little canopies, side by side, where different people cook fish for you.   Here is the one we selected.

Not impressive, but the food really was good.

The food was good, whole fried fish, delicious patacones (our favorite), rice, sliced onions and tomatoes for 12,000 pesos (US $7).

After we bought Wilson's meal and drinks, when we got back to the boat, he asked for a propina for taking us around for the day.  

6/17 We decided to go outside of Cholon, Baru to make water.   But....when we got outside the buoys....we kept going.   We went over to the Rosarios and found a new anchorage.   It was exposed to the north (again), but not a very rough night.

We planned to drop the dinghy in the morning and go around the corner and down the channel to the aviary sanctuary.  

The coast guard came by on their daily rounds, and we told them of our plans in the morning to visit the aviary,  They advised us not to leave the boat.   They said someone needs to stay on board at all times, or things will get stolen.  The Rosarios has a bad reputation among cruisers of things getting stolen, especially dinghies and motors.  (Just what "we" need).

So, we decided in the morning, at good light, to change anchorages, and anchor outside the coast guard station so we could go visit the aviary while they keep an eye on Valentina.

 

6/18 As soon as we had good light, we pulled up anchor and motored through the shallow channel to the south side of the Rosarios, near the Coast Guard station and the aviary.  We stayed on board today and equalized our batteries.  

 

 6/19 It was a long night.  Not much sleep on board.   We were safe, near the Coast Guard station, but completely exposed to the south and west.....just where the strong wind came from.  Lightning filled the sky in all directions, along with thunder and rain.  We are anxious to see the aviary, then move on to a protected anchorage for some much needed sleep.

 

Early, we went to the coast guard station and talked to Jhon, who came out to our boat yesterday.   Such a nice young man, and very helpful.  

Sonny, Jhon, and the children who live near the coast guard facilities.

 

The Rosarios Coast Guard Facility.  Very, very nice!

He showed us around the nice facilities of the Coast Guard of Rosarios and we met the children who live near the facilities.

Valentina, near the Coast Guard office.

 

There are 7 children,

with the eldest being 8 years old. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sonny and Kay with the children in our dinghy.

We visited the amazing aviary, we had heard so much about from other cruisers.  One man loves birds and started collecting them.  It is unbelievable all of the different species of birds he has collected.  

Owls A colorful toucan A ????.....not sure what this guy is.

After visiting the aviary, we pulled up anchor and casually sailed to Baru, making water while underway in the clear water.

How nice......what a great anchorage!  Feels like home to us.

"I could live here".

6/20

 Just relaxed today.....swam in the water and enjoyed the day.          

6/21

We dinghied over to the beach today, where you sit in the water, under a canopy, and eat a plate lunch of fish.
Can you find Sonny sitting at the table in the water? He is from New York, visiting a friend in Colombia.

 

It was a nice lunch, fish, patacones, coconut rice, and sliced tomatoes and onions.   The fun part is sitting in the water and watching the small fish swim around you, waiting for you to drop a piece of food.

Kay, sitting at the table in the water. Sonny is waiting for our lunch.

The locals, of course, swarm you, wanting you to buy necklaces, etc. just trying to make a living.  Lucille came up to us and asked us if we wanted a massage.  Of course, we said no, then she told us how much it would cost.  It would be 10,000 pesos for 30 minutes.   That is a little over $5 for a 30 minute massage.  So, when we finished eating, we took her out to Valentina, and we both got massages.  A real treat!

6/23 This evening, a very small sailboat came out to Valentina from the nearby hotel.  There were four people scrunched onboard.   They spoke English and we invited them on board.

 

What a nice family...a real treat for us to meet. They are a family from Sweden, Per, Adriana, and daughters, "Valentina" and Felicia.

 

Valentina and Felicia

 

6/24 Sonny cleaned (three-fourths) of the bottom of the boat while I sanded the companionway.

Our new Swedish friends sailed out to the boat this evening from their hotel.   It is so interesting meeting new people from all over the world.  Per is from Sweden, and Adriana, his wife, is Colombian.  They wanted to bring their two daughters to Colombia to see their mother's culture.  They own bookstores in Sweden and talked about how they got together and life in Sweden with the very short days of sunlight. 

 

6/25 Sonny mounted our new battery box for our dinghy today while I varnished the companionway.

Short time friendships....long time memories.

Then, we dinghied to the hotel to say "good-bye" to our Swedish friends then went a few miles away, through the mangrove canal to the pueblo of Baru and bought a few things at the tienda.

The mangrove canals are how local boats transit in calm water. Local children fishing in the canal.  They caught a huge fish. Baru is a very poor pueblo and very little work. They use donkeys for hauling everything. No cars, motorcycles for taxi's.

 

We went up to Roberto and Carmen's house on the hill.  Carmen prepared us dinner and we watched the sunset.  Roberto is a retired LA policeman and ex-sailor, who moved here, and is building a huge house on top of the mountain. 

Carmen, Sonny, and Roberto on the porch.

What a spectacular view! 

On all sides.

"Wow...Are we really here?  I see Valentina".

6/26

Tonight, we invited Roberto "Mister" and Carmen out to Valentina for chicken quesadillas.   What a great evening...he has interesting stories.  Carmen is Colombian, and speaks a little English, but  understands a lot.  She is Baptist, and very strong in her faith.God's creation is just breath-taking.

6/27 We sure have enjoyed our time in Baru.  It is just beautiful, and we are the only sailboat here.   We watch the tourist come down from Cartagena each day on the big power boats,  play, and leave.  And, we have met so many interesting people here.
6/28 We spent a lot of time in the water today.   Some college kids from Bogota  were spending the holiday at the cottage nearby and swam out to the boat.  They invited us to their party during the evening, but we declined.  Later, we swam in to where they were staying.   There were 20 kids, very well behaved and friendly.   They were afraid they would be too loud during the night and keep us awake, but we hardly heard a word out of them.

An end to another great day in paradise.

6/30 Have we mentioned lately that we love our hard bimini and solar panels?

Today, about 5 p.m. the rumbling started, the lightning began to light up the sky, and the wind started howling from different directions.   The wind just got up to 18 knots, but the lightning was near and loud.   

We already had our bathing suits on (we live in them) so we got some soap in a bowl and started washing down the boat.    Then, of course, the rain subsided.   Now....we have a soapy boat!

But, then, it wasn't long, and the bottom fell out.   We had rain, we had lightning, we had thunder......all of the good things.

But, we were ready.   The cockpit was enclosed.   Valentina was soaped down and clean.  The rain gutter on the hard bimini was connected and going into the water tank and the sun and wind had completely charged our batteries.

It took probably an hour to fill our water tank.   We were down to less than 1/4 of a tank of water (100 gallon tank).   And....now we are full.

We are so thankful!    It has not rained very much, so we have not been able to gather water from our new bimini.   It works perfectly!

 

 

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Ever Safe

Safe in Jehovah's Keeping, Safe in temptations hour.

Safe in the midst of perils, Kept by Almighty power.

Safe when the tempest rages, Safe though the night be long,

E'en when my sky is darkest, God is my strength and song.

Sir Robert Anderson