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We wish you and your family a very happy and healthy New Year from the remote islands of beautiful  Bannerdup, San Blas in Panama. 

In San Blas, there are over 360 islands, most are  uninhabited but some have Kuna Indian families whose job is to protect the coconuts on the island.  On the islands, there are no cars, tv's, internet, ATM's, restaurants, fresh water, electricity or any of the modern conveniences we are accustomed to.  On some of the islands, there is a small tienda with only the Bear Necessities.

But, there are beautiful islands with sandy beaches, great snorkeling, and Kuna Indians rowing up to your boat daily to sell you their beautiful handcrafted molas or their catch of the day.    We have had snapper, lobster, octopus, and crab, so far.  Then, behind you, is the mainland, covered with mountains.  Life is good.....

Amazingly enough, we have charged many a cell phone for Kuna Indians on our boat, because they use cell phones for communication....but no electricity or means to charge it.  Sonny said he was going to start charging them a coconut in exchange to charge their phones.   They are happy to do so.

It is truly a sight to see one row up to your boat in their homemade ulu, tattered clothes, and then.....to hear their cell phone ring.

But, they honestly have so very little, and are thankful anything you can give them.   They love magazines.  They cannot read English, but love to look at the pictures.

All three boats, Queen Mary, Eclipse, and Valentina pulled up anchors this morning.  Queen Mary went to Salar, Eclipse went to East Lemons, and Valentina returned to Porvenir, where the kids will end our vacation time and fly back to Panama City on the 3rd.

We placed an order for some Kuna bread to be ready in the morning.

We ate at the restaurant for dinner, fried chicken, rice, beans, and cole slaw.  Very good meal for $5.  We went back to the boat so they could start packing their things for the early flight in the morning.   We sure have enjoyed having them on Valentina for 12 days.  The time has gone by fast and it is already time for them to return to the snow in Iowa. 

Having a total of seven people on board for 12 days could be crazy, but, they were very good.   We had fun and did a lot of things.

We were going to head down island to Solar to rejoin our buddy boat, Queen Mary, but the seas were too rough and the wind was screaming at 25 - 30 knots, so we decided to wait it out another day at the rocky anchorage at Porvenir.

We decided to go ahead and leave Porvenir.  It was still 25 - 30 knots of wind and rough seas, but it took us two hours before we could get behind the reef for some protection.  We met Gene and Brenda at Canbombia, near Bannerdup.

It is a very calm anchorage with four other boats, not counting S/V Queen Mary.  We are so thankful to be in a calm anchorage.  Our kids got sea-sick when we were on anchor at Porvenir, it was very rocky and rolly.

Sonny and Gene went snorkeling and checking out the reef at our new anchorage while the girls cleaned up the boats.

Gina and David and the kids were going to fly out of Panama City this afternoon, but while at the airport, before boarding the plane, someone stole their laptop bag with their passports, cell phone, and boarding passes inside.  So, they have to stay in Panama City until next Wednesday, which is the next available flight out.  Since all five passports were stolen, they were told they could use the police report to get back into the States.

We had Gene and Brenda of S/V Queen Mary, and Don and his grand-daughter, Jess on S/V Phoenix over for dinner.  Don had sailed around the world and his stories were very interesting.   He loved the Figi Islands and Turkey the best.

Then, we battled the waves back to our boats.  Just another adventure.

We ate aboard Queen Mary tonight.....fresh fish, of course.   Life is good....

We talked last night with Gene and Brenda, and our 30 days in San Blas is up on the 13th of January.  Right now, in San Blas, you can stay 30 days, then you have to go to Colon to get the mariner's visa and can stay 60 more days in San Blas.

We need to make a trip to Panama City also to pick up a couple of solar panels and material to take with us to Cartagena when we have our hard bimini made.

Gene and Brenda decided to go to Colon also, to reprovision.

So, after some projects this morning, we will head back to Porvenir, then anchor the night in Checheme for a morning trip towards Colon.

		Then, another ulu came out to us, it was the Kuna woman who I gave one of my blouses to when we were previously here, for her to sew molas on.  I told her when we left that we would be back in two weeks.  She charged me $13 and it took her about a week to complete the hand sewn mola on my blouse.  We really like this Kuna family.
	Our kids are still in Panama City.  The airline and the US Embassy told them they would definitely have to have passports to leave the country, and so now they are getting emergency passports.  Of course, they will not get them in time to catch their scheduled flight, so they had to reschedule another next available flight which is now Monday, the 14th.  What an ordeal!  We are going to go to Colon in Valentina, and will take a bus to Panama City to see them before they depart.

We went ashore to visit the families and Lacy came up to me and wanted more fingernail polish.  I told her I would give her some more in exchange for some beads.   She made a funny expression....then motioned for me to follow her.   So I did.  

We went into the thatched hut where the family hammocks are hung from the poles and her father was sitting down, putting together a beaded bracelet.  She pointed for me to look at him.   He was making a bracelet out of orange and white beads to match my mola blouse with the letters, "Valentina", made into it.

I about cried.   She said he wanted to surprise us and bring it to our boat before we left in the morning.

It was a good crossing.  We arrived at 6 p.m  

It is always exciting to be in Colon (for a short period).  The ships transiting the canal are within less than one mile from the anchorage and you can sit in the cockpit and watch the action of the huge ships and pilot boats passing by.

It is a great place, also, to provision and only a two hour bus ride to Panama City for boat parts.

Panama is the worst place we have been for immigration issues. (Mexico is second).  Literally, every time you go in, which is every 30 days, the rules change, and they are not willing to assist you at all.  You want to abide by the rules, but it is almost impossible and expensive.

Now, they have added a boat inspection for a $50 fee.  Sonny brought the inspector to the dock, got in our dinghy and circled our boat (and Queen Mary's).  The inspector just wanted to see the boat names and was satisfied, $100 later.

Then, we went to the Rey grocery store and began provisioning.  It will be a month or two before we are back near civilization to provision again, so we are stocking up.   Finding places to store it is the real challenge.

Then, Sonny took our propane tank to get refilled while Kay took our clothes in to wash.

A busy day......then we sat in the cockpit to watch the ships transit the canal.   Our friends, Art and Suzanne, whom we met in the East Lemons are going through tonight, we waved them goodbye on their way and sent our well wishes for the Pacific.

We stayed in the same hotel, $30 a night for a king bed, continental breakfast, and wireless internet.

They were anxious to get back home to their friends, school (did I say school?) and their jobs (did I say jobs?).

After they left for the airport, we shopped all day and found all of the materials to make our new dodger and cockpit enclosure.

We caught the bus back to Colon and were back on our boats by 4:30 p.m.

Today, the seas are the lowest 8-9' and the wind is 20-25 and it just gets higher from here.  So, Queen Mary and Valentina decided to go ahead, bite the bullet, put airplane wings on our boats and get it over with.

We filled the boats with diesel, filled the jerry cans with gasoline, went to the vegetable market, did last minute updates to the website and left Colon in the blowing wind at 1:45 p.m. headed for San Blas for a rough overnighter.

The seas for the first 30 miles were very rough and on the nose.  So, we motored (tacked) so we would not beat directly into them.

There were so many ships for the first 10 hours, we literally had to dodge them.

During the strong wind, our line on our staysail broke, so we had to clip on to the jack lines and both go forward to get the staysail down and secured.   The waves were coming over the bow as we tried to get the sail down.

After we rounded the corner near Linton, the seas were on the forward beam, so it was bearable.

In San Blas, there are no internet cafes, so we will not be able to download our website until we arrive in Cartagena later.   Can you imagine being somewhere where there is not internet? 

You can continue to track us on our home page in the top right corner, click on "Where is Valentina?" and through our single-side band radio, we can keep you updated of our exact where-abouts.

We arrived at the East Lemons at 8:00 a.m. after a long night.   We are so glad to be here, a calm anchorage.  We did a few chores, then by 10 a.m., we went to bed until 3 p.m.   Much needed rest....after an all-nighter.

When we were arriving, a boat was departing East Lemons and he was pointing to the side of our boat.   Kay went out and looked, but nothing appeared to be dragging in the water.   When we went to anchor, Sonny said our anchor was out and about 20' feet of chain.  Oh no!   After we anchored, he immediately donned his snorkel gear and went down to inspect our bottom to see if the dangling anchor in the high seas did any damage.

Thankfully, all was well.  Someone is watching over us today!

One of the best things about being in the East Lemons, is being able to get fresh, hot Kuna bread for 10 cents a piece.   He blows a conch horn when the bread is coming out of the oven and the dinghies parade over to his island.

Happy Birthday today to our eldest grand-daughter, Kalei.  She is 13 years old today and a real cutie.

Later the evening, Gene and Brenda wanted to play music, so, of course, we said, "Yes!".  The two Kuna guys came by for Gene to charge their cell phone and stayed for the music.   They enjoyed it, even the one who could not hear.

Happy Birthday to our newest daughter-(in law),

Jennifer

It is so nice and calm in this anchorage.   The wind and seas can be blowing, but here, it is perfectly calm.

Kay worked some more on the stainless today, when the vegetable boat came by from Tienda Eidi.  We bought a papaya, onions, potatoes, zucchini, and tomatoes.   You pay a lot more for the vegetables, but the Kunas come out in their outboards and gasoline is $5.25 a gallon at the nearby village.  It is nice having them deliver the goodies to your boat.

Kay was washing out the rags from the stainless cleaning project, when Serapio came to the boat in his ulu with vegetables.  We bought some avocadoes and He said he also does laundry, so Kay, being vulnerable after hand-washing the dirty rags, gave him a bag of laundry to do.   It will cost $4 and he will return tomorrow with the clean clothes.   Hopefully, we will have "all" of our clothes in return.  Serapio did return this afternoon with our two chickens we requested.  Nice, fresh whole chicken.   They still have their heads on them.

Gene and Brenda left this afternoon to go help fellow cruisers on Nintai arrive down island.   Their motor is not working or their roller furling to the gib and they are coming from Cartagena, so the assistance would be appreciated.   In cruising, we are all family and help each other when necessary.   Gene and Brenda are very good people.  Always there to help others in need.

We listened to the Patriot/Charger playoff game this afternoon on our Sirius radio.  But, the Green Bay/Giants game just said, "Acquiring Signal".    It is nice to be able to keep up with "some" of the activities in the States.

As we are here in paradise, we have chores to do, just like on your home.  It is time for the refresher coats of varnish, replace hoses on the head, change oil on the diesel engine and generator, replace the light bulb in the steaming light on the mast, and other projects.  We will anchor here, in the lee of the island, behind the reef, where it is calm and get our work done.   We just couldn't think of a better place to work.....if you have to.

Serapio did bring back our clean clothes today.   We were relieved.  Kind of scary handing your bag of clothes to a stranger, saying he will return with them the next day.  But, thankfully, he did.

We worked on varnishing the cap rail today.  But, at sunset, we played farkle in the cockpit and waited for the full moon to come up.   Just beautiful!

Life is good.

We have been just working too hard, it is time for some music on Queen Mary. 

Tonight, we had Les, Zophie, and Mike from Poland on S/V Just Be K, and Casey and Jamie (from Kilgore, TX) on S/V Santa Magdalina, and Howard and Donna on S/V Nintai join us.   A fun evening!   We have been so blessed to meet some of the most interesting people along the way.

Les, Zophie, and friend Mike from Poland cruising aboard Just Be K, named after their three daughters, Justine, Beatrice, and Kathalina. S/V Just Be K is going through the canal to the Pacific side.   Their friend, Mike, is taking a year's sabbatical to cruise with them. They have been out cruising for two years, from Canada, down the East coast of the US and to Panama. They have warm hearts and are very friendly.	Casey and Jamie are a young couple cruising aboard S/V Santa Magdalina. We enjoyed them so much. Casey's father was a merchant sailor, and Casey has a photo of him at 4 months aboard the ship "Santa Magdalina". They are going through the canal in February and headed to Chile, before returning to the States for 6 months to work. Casey is also a merchant marine and Jamie works in public relations 6 months of the year.	Howard and Donna live and have cruised aboard S/V Nintai, which means patience for ten years.  They are from California and came down the western California coast, Mexico, and through the canal. After cruising in the Caribbean, they are ready to head back through the canal to Mexico's west coast. They plan to transit the canal again in the next few months. They are a fun couple.

We continue to be amazed that we really are here, in this beautiful place,

enjoying each day to the fullest.

Our view from Valentina

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