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November, 2008

San Blas, Panama

Sailing in the beautiful San Blas, Panama
11/1 We are in the beautiful Holandes Cays in San Blas.   The water is so crystal clear, the cruisers call it the 'swimming pool' and the area behind the reef that we also enjoy is called the 'hot tub'.

We went over to visit Tom and Julie on Gris-Gris.   They are from New Orleans and we have talked to them a lot on the radio, but, not spent much time in person.  Nice people, very helpful.

We heard on the net this morning that Roberto and Any on Deux Pieds are in the San Blas and looking for us.  We have not seen them in over a year so we were most excited.   They are at the Eastern Coco Bandero Cays, about five miles away. 

East Coco Bandero Cays - some of the most beautiful in San Blas

11/2

Well, we couldn't stand it, we are on our way to see Roberto and Any, our good Argentine friends.    They heard us on the radio say we were headed their way.   They do not talk on the nets, because they do not feel their English is good enough, (but their English is much better than our Spanish). 

Roberto and Kay - What a Reunion!                     Sonny and Any - Great long time friends.

When we arrived to the islands, they came out in their dinghy to meet us and was waving and blowing the air horn.   How fun! 

What a wonderful reunion!     We all went snorkeling and fishing this afternoon. (Well, I sat in the dinghy taking pictures).

Sonny and Roberto - on the hunt.....for....fish!

11/3
We wish you a wonderful day and year!

Happy 37th Birthday to our daughter, Stacie. 

Enjoy.....We Love You.

  This is another holiday for Panama and there is a celebration on the islands, so Deux Pieds, Glide and Valentina are going to pull up anchors this morning at 9 a.m. and head to Nargana together.

Sailing in and around the San Blas islands are beautiful.

  After we all arrived at Nargana, we dropped our dinghies and scooted into town for the festivities.   The streets were decorated with banners, palm frons, balloons, and flags.  A very festive atmosphere, but no fiesta.   They told us it would start at 4 or 5 p.m.   So we returned to our boats for a rest.   We went in town at 4 p.m. and were told it would begin at 7 pm.  So we waited.   Finally, we were told the person in charge of the fiesta had drank too much and it would begin in the morning.     So.......Maņana......

The local school here has wireless internet....if you sit on the steps.  So, we are trying to download our website, but not sure it was successful.

 Being creative to get on the internet.

So, we all returned to S/V Deux Pieds for a few games of farkle.   What fun!   We had our own fiesta.....and, the girls won

!Kay is getting a new ankle bracelet of Kuna beads.

 

11/4 We went into town this morning, early, and people were all dressed and gathering for the big parade beginning in Corazon de Jesus.

 

Isn't she Beautiful?  A teacher. The Corizon de Jesus statue on the square. Kuna lady that I bought my anklet from. Roberto, Sonny, and Dennis
       

There are two small island villages joined by a new walking bridge.   The village names are Corazon de Jesus (heart of Jesus) and Rio Diablo (river of devil) which is now called Nargana.   The parade began around the basketball court and circled it several times, then went across the bridge to Nargana, and each group performed on the concrete at the high school.

The drums played very loudly and very repetitious.   Same beat, over and over and....over.  We could dream of it in our sleep.

The costumes were colorful and beautiful.  So were the young ladies. Albino children are common in Kuna Yala. Young drummers....wouldn't you like to be their mother?

Each group, mostly children, were dressed in their costumes and very nice.

Such a beautiful young lady.

After the festivities, we bought some diesel to top off our tank ($4.50 a gallon).   Then, all three boats pulled up anchors and headed to Esnasdup.  Our home.....

11/5 Sonny, Roberto, and Dennis and Pam went snorkeling this morning while Any (nursing her foot) and Kay (nursing her eyes) stayed on board our boats.

Roberto returned to Deux Pieds around noon, and called me on the VHF.   They decided to have a picnic on the beautiful island, so I packed up some chicken, made a salad, and packed drinks and headed to the island for a barbeque.

It tasted wonderful!  Any brought her famous potato tortilla, which was such a treat.   But, it started raining, so Sonny had to return to Valentina (quickly) to shut our hatches.

We gathered on Deux Pieds again this evening for another round of farkle.   Kay won!

11/6 This morning, it was time for some boat chores, before we could go play.   We double-checked our tank tender in our diesel tank.    Our  display said we used over 1/2 a tank of diesel from Cartagena to here, but we did not feel that was right.   So, Sonny checked it, and sure enough, it had gotten stuck.   We have almost a full tank, after adding 10 gallons at Nargana.  Whew!

Time to go play!                                                Sonny, Any, Roberto, Kay, Dennis and Pam

We all went in the dinghies to the beautiful island and burned trash and cleaned up the island.   Dennis did not have a spear gun, so we loaned him one of ours, and he said, "My next fish....will be my first fish!"    Well, that little fisherman shot four fish on his first day!  Awesome!   He is hooked now.

He prepared his catch into fish cakes, and we enjoyed them on S/V Glide to celebrate his catch.

11/7

Grandma Kay with Kylie

Happy 5th Birthday Kylie!

This morning, on the net, Dennis asked if anyone had a spear gun for sale.  After discussing it, Sonny and I decided to sell him the one he borrowed from us.   Pam said it was an early Christmas present for him.   We are excited for him.

Deux Pieds left this morning for Porvenir to get a zarpe, and Valentina and Glide pulled up anchors and headed to Gunboat island, about 3 hours away.

Just beautiful....                  My favorite spot....I could live here!

We are going to the Robinson Cays tomorrow, to reunite with Ingi, a Kuna girl we met last year.

Sonny talking to Dennis on S/V Glide, as we are underway.

Upon our arrival at Gunboat, a ulu rowed out to Valentina with a Kuna lady, a man, and a young boy.   The Kuna lady exclaimed, "Valentina......Sonny!"    She remembered us last year from Checheme.   Wow....it was cool.   We remembered her and her son also.   We told her we would come ashore to see them (and their molas) in about 30 minutes.

Reunited with old friends.           Molas.....molas.....molas!

Later, her brothers rowed out to Valentina in their ulu selling fish.   We bought four nice fish, for $3.  Sonny cleaned them, then used some for bait.

He put a baited hook over the side, when we heard a fish, we jumped up to see.   No fish, but our hook was straightened out.

So, Sonny put a BIG hook on the line and more bait.  About five minutes later, we heard a noise, jumped up, and we are the proud owners of a 6' nurse shark.   It is dark, so we are just going to keep him swimming around our boat tonight, and deal with him in the morning.

11/8 After babysitting our shark on our line all night.....we just checked on him a couple of times during the night.   He was swimming in circles...all night.

At 6 a.m. we decided to ask the Kuna guys if they wanted to clean the shark for us for $5 and they can keep some of the meat.   They were excited!

Our nurse shark we caught on a hand line at the boat.

The Kunas came out to Valentina in their ulu and pulled him into their ulu with them to take it to the island to clean him.

After several hours, a dull machete, and two tired Kunas, we had the meat in zip-lock bags, ready for the freezer.   A well spent $5.

A LOT of work, cleaning the shark.

We gave them a chunk of meat, but they really wanted the shark fins and skin.

We soaked our meat in salt water to help it not have an ammonia taste.

Then, at 8:30 a.m. we pulled up anchor, along with Dennis and Pam on S/V Glide, and headed to the Carti Islands about two hours away.   There is a doctor there, and Sonny and I both have sore throats and want to get some medicine, before we head out to Bocas del Toro soon.

Sonny getting checked out. We both saw the young doctor (28 years old), and he gave both of us a prescription for Ibuprofen and antibiotics.  

Our total bill was $20.  So well worth it.

Kay seeing the doctor.

Then, we pulled up anchors and headed about two hours away to the Robison Cays, where Ingi and her Aunt Florene live.   Of course, for more molas!

S/V Glide - Dennis and Pam

Ingi with her Aunt Florene We are having Ingi make us a Valentina mola and we will pick it up in 4 months, when we return to San Blas.

 

We came back to Valentina after being on the island all afternoon.   We fried some of our shark....and....it was.....delicious!   Very, very good!

11/9

We had many visitors to the boat in their ulus selling molas, fish, crab, lobster, limes, etc.   We gave each of the children some candy.Two visitors in their ulu at Valentina.

Sonny could have started a business charging cell phones for them.   We had three cell phones at one time charging on Valentina.   They have no power at all on their island, and their cell phones are their lifelines to communicate to their families and friends on the other islands.

The dock to go ashore at the island.  Just pieces of trees laid down. The children love to come to the boats....hoping for a treat. The women want treats....also.

Ingi does have a solar panel that she uses to charge her phone.

We went into shore to talk to Ingi and I took four big bags of stuff for her family off our boat.   The older women love old eye glasses.   With the intricate handwork on the molas, it is necessary for them to see.

Then, up came the anchors again and we headed to the West Lemon Cays to reunite with Roberto and Any on Deux Pieds.

We had dinner together and played farkle on Deux Pieds.  Fun night.....until the chitras arrived.  During the night, the wind died, and the bugs came alive.    All three boats got very little sleep and voted unanimously to depart early in the morning.

This palm tree has your name on it....come relax in the sand on the beach.

11/10

Glide left early, then Deux Pieds and Valentina came about an hour later.   We talked to Chris Parker, the weather guru we subscribe to, for a weather forecast to head west towards Colon.   He said we would have NW winds for the next few days.   So, we will relax in the East Lemon Cays a day or two and hopefully, feel 100% before heading out.

Scene from the bread island.

Demetrio came by in his ulu asking if we wanted lobster or crab.   He said the large lobsters are $2 and small ones are $1.   We told him we would like some large ones and he said he would return at about 1 p.m. with them.

Just absolutely beautiful!

Some other fishermen came by in an ulu selling a very large snapper.   We bought him for $6.  They even cleaned it for us. Our $6 snapper.

 

11/11 When the bread is hot and ready, you can hear the conch horn on the nearby island.   So, when we heard it, we got in our dinghy and went to the bread island.   Kuna bread is so good.  Torpedo shaped bread about 8 inches long.   The price has increased to $.15 each.   They were $.10 last year.

                    Kuna huts on bread island with molas displayed.                Roberto, Any, and Sonny

We went over to S/V Sapphire this evening, along with S/V Blue Print and S/V Deux Pieds.  Then, we went over to Deux Pieds for some of Any's delicious fish.

11/12  
 

 
Shea with big sister Riley

Happy 1st Birthday

to

Shea Taylor Sisson

Our newest grand-daughter.

 

Riley and Shae one year later

 
     
 
  We pulled up anchor, along with Roberto and Any on Deux Pieds, at 6:15 a.m. headed for Linton, Panama.   It is 40 miles away, so we should be there by 3 p.m.

 

Forecast is for NE winds at 10-15, and it started out north winds, but, as we are headed west, the winds, of course, clocked around to the west, so we motored all day.

One of the islands at the entrance to Isla Grande.

We arrived at 2:15 p.m.   In this anchorage, we found old friends, Joel and Patricia on S/V Brahms (with the baby grand piano on board), Owen and Betty on S/V Hiatus, and Sandy on S/V Little Bit.    It is so nice, everywhere you go, you know people.

11/13 It is a nice, calm, peaceful day in Linton.  We are still not feeling very well, so we are just resting today.    We did not even get the dinghy down (that is very unusual!).

Roberto and Any are headed to Colon, so they left early this morning.

11/14 After checking weather reports very early this morning, we decided to go ahead and go straight to Bocas del Toro from Linton.  In the next week, some lows and cold fronts are coming in, so we will just head straight there.

It is about 156 miles and a 35 hour trip.   Not fun....but there is a full moon tonight, and we should pass all of the Panama Canal ship traffic early in the day.

 

Underway.... So, we pulled up the anchor and headed out.   It was a dark, dreary morning with rain on the horizon.

 

 

The seas were lumpy; the current was against us; and, the wind, of course, turned on our nose.   But, hopefully things will get better, the closer we get to Bocas. Calmer seas...

The night-time is so pleasant with the full moon.  It is a very clear night, no squalls or ships are even showing up on our 36 mile radar, at the moment.  Nice!  The chart says it is 3,104 feet deep here.   Not sure I want to dive down to verify that.  ; )

The Captain at rest...

Owen on S/V Hiatus met us for a  9 p.m. check in tonight on the SSB to check on us while we are underway.  He is a good guy and a fellow Texan.

11/15 It is 2:45 a.m. and we are 62.4 n/miles to Bocas.  The chartplotter is saying we should arrive in 15 1/2 hours at our current speed.   That will be getting close to dark.   Maybe we will be able to make up some time, if the current changes in our favor.

We continued on.....at only 3  1/2 to 4 knots.   What a slow....long trip!   We normally go 5-7 knots, but the wind is on our nose, and the strong current is against us the whole way.  Not fun.

As we neared Bocas del Toro, our speed started picking up.   We finally were getting some current with us.  Within one hour of Bocas, we got up to 6 and 7 knots.

We decided to follow our tracks on our chartplotter to weave around the islands to go to a Bastimentos anchorage.   It was dark when we dropped anchor.   A good night's sleep was awaiting us.

 

11/16

Happy Birthday to our sweet friend, Karen on S/V Bear Necessity.  We wish you salty water in your future.

                                         Kay and Karen

11/17 We are resting up after our crossing from Linton and doing projects on the boat.

Kay and Sonny

Sonny replaced the motor in our electric head today.   The other motor still works...just makes noise, so we put a new motor on.  He 'is' still a plumber, sometimes.

We decided to get off the boat awhile today, so we walked across the island to Red Frog Beach today.  It was a rainy, windy day, so we came back to Valentina and ate lunch.

Red Frog Beach....there really are little red frogs here.  

 

11/18 We went to the Bocas del Toro anchorage and checked into Panama.
Our fees were:  
Immigration: $25.00
Port Captain: $20.00
Launcha for them to come to our boat: $15.00
Quarantine Inspection: $18.00
Cruising Permit for Valentina for 3 months: $69.00
Immigration Stamps: $25.00 (We were each supposed to get a $10 and a $5 at the bank for each of us, but the bank was not aware of the $5. So we purchased one (the only one he had) from Lou, the immigration guy. $25.00
Our total check in fees were:

 

One boat checked in at Colon and their fees were $242.

$172.00

Beautiful plants

Panama is different from other countries.  You cannot freely travel within the country on your boat.   You have to get a zarpe for each area, and check in and out at each of the four different areas.   And, the rules change almost daily.

We went to bed at 8 p.m. and by 11 p.m. our feet hit the ground at the same time.  (Hard to do from 'our' v-berth).   The wind began howling and continued all night.   The anchorage does not have good holding and boats are notoriously dragging.   So, Kay could not sleep and stayed in the cockpit all night, watching.   Another long night.    The wind was a constant 20 - 38 mph all night.

11/19 After the sun finally came up, we were listening to the local net on the VHF radio.   Chuck, from Bocas Marina, said there was an earthquake last night on the Panama/Costa Rica border.    It was 6.2 and only 60 miles away from us.   People on land in Bocas definitely felt it in their homes, but we were rocking around so much in the anchorage, you would have never known it.

The weather report is more of the same for about another week.  

What a dreary day.....the wind is howling, the rain is blowing, and the anchorage is rough and the boats are rocking.   No one is even getting their dinghies down, the water is too rough.  I prepared a big pot of soup and we stayed on the boat and rested and played farkle.

We did get some sleep that night though.   It was still very rocky and rolly, but we would just wake up and look out every hour to check the boats around us.

11/20 When we woke up and it was reasonable calm.  The wind was down to 20 knots, so we lowered the dinghy, and went to Careening Cay Marina, about a mile away,  in the rain to see our spot we previously reserved for Dec. 1.   Mary told us we could come in to the marina early, if we wanted to.  "We wanted to!"  So, we headed back, pulled up the anchor on Valentina and are now safely tucked into the marina with lines holding us and protected from other boats.   Rest at last!     

The wind is calm this morning....16 knots

Bad weather is supposed to continue for another week.  So, as Sonny says almost everywhere we go......we are "just so glad to be here"  (in the marina).

View behind us at the village on Carenara Island

Tonight, is potluck at the marina.   We we prepared chicken alfredo and enjoyed dinner with our new friends at the marina.

But, we all about froze!   It is raining, the wind is blowing....and...it is down to 75 degrees!

 
Mary and Victor singing Check out this 75 degrees...and we are freezing! Sonny playing the harmonica with his coat on.

11/21 Wow.....we are back in the land of communications.   Very, very different, but nice.   At the marina, we have:

 

Wireless Internet We have not had that on the boat in a long time.  We can use Skype and update the website daily.   We are currently on internet overload.   We are on our laptops a lot on these rainy days.!
110 Power We can use our icemaker, laptops and lights at leisure.
Rain It has rained, non-stop for the past 6 days, so our water tanks are full.
Washing Machine A washing machine at the marina, so we do not have to hand wash our clothes.
Television There is even a TV in the palapa that we could watch.  (Now that has been a very, very long time).  18 months ago when we were in the States, I believe.

Mary and Kay in front of the marina (bottom) and their home (top)               Mary and Kay

It may sound like we have been deprived by not having all the modern 'stuff', but, we really prefer the simple lifestyle.   We listen to the news every morning on our SSB, so we can keep up with the situation in the world.   Sometimes, it is better to hang our heads in the sand and not know.Sonny at the Pirate Restaurant

I checked our satellite weather on the internet, and here is where we are:

Not a good looking sight....

You can click to enlarge the map, but the blue circle at the bottom, we are to the left of it, so more rain is headed our way.

We are just thankful we went ahead and came all the way here from Linton, rather than stopping along the way.

  We are safe and snug in the marina preparing Valentina for our trip home for three months.   We are equalizing our batteries today.

We have another grandbaby due, our 9th!  We are excited to be there for it and our other 6 grand-daughters and 2 grand-sons.

Gentry and Jennifer awaiting the big day. Gentry and Jennifer

Our newest grandbaby is due Dec. 10th

 

Beautiful Pregnant Mom...

 

11/25 Well, so much for communication.....for the past three days, Bocas del Toro has had no communications with the outside world, except for SSB radios.  The towers for the internet and cell phones are out.  That means ATM's, ticket counters at the small airport, etc.   People are stocking up on food, so supplies in the grocery stores are running low.  Gasoline will not be available for a while. Holcim Cement.....

It is just crazy.   This Low that is sitting over us has caused such havoc.  But, we are safe and sound in the marina.

11/26

The confusion continues, but we do have cell phone and internet today. 

11/27 It is Thanksgiving Day.   We went over to Bocas Marina for their Thanksgiving dinner.   The marina supplies the turkey, dressing, and mashed potatoes and everyone else brings a dish to share.

There were 90 people there.   A lot of food, very nice.

We came back to our marina in time to see the last half of the Dallas Cowboy game.

 

Happy Thanksgiving from Valentina.

We are so thankful for so much.  

We wish you a very good day and a thankful heart. 

We have so much to be thankful for.

♥  ♥  ♥  ♥  ♥  ♥  ♥  ♥

 

11/28

We are continuing do projects to get the boat ready to leave.Sonny....up the mast.

Mack and Mary of Carerena Marina had everyone at their house for potluck dinner tonight.  And....pecan and pumpkin pies!  What a treat!

Marina office and Mack and Mary's home Valentina in the marina. Coconut trees all around

 

11/30 The island is drying up some from the rain, so we went walking around.   It is a very poor community, with resorts on the east side of the island.
Here, boys play pulling a board through the water. Their homes have standing water underneath.      An old refrigerator door for a boat. Village is poor, but the people are happy.

 

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"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did do. 

So, throw off the bowlines. 

Sail away from the safe harbor.

Catch the trade winds in your sails."

Explore.  Dream.  Discover.

-   Mark Twain

 

Twent