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November, 2008
San Blas, Panama |
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11/1 |
We are in the beautiful Holandes Cays in San Blas.
The water is so crystal clear, the cruisers call it the 'swimming
pool' and the area behind the reef that we also enjoy is called the
'hot tub'. We went over to visit Tom and Julie on Gris-Gris.
They are from New Orleans and we have talked to them a lot on the
radio, but, not spent much time in person. Nice people, very
helpful.
We heard on the net this morning that Roberto
and Any on Deux Pieds are in the San Blas and looking for us. We
have not seen them in over a year so we were most excited.
They are at the Eastern Coco Bandero Cays, about five miles away.
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11/2 |
Well, we couldn't stand it, we are on our way to see
Roberto and Any, our good Argentine friends. They
heard us on the radio say we were headed their way. They
do not talk on the nets, because they do not feel their English is good
enough, (but their English is much better than our Spanish).

When we arrived to the islands, they came out in their dinghy to
meet us and was waving and blowing the air horn. How fun!
What a wonderful reunion! We all went
snorkeling and fishing this afternoon. (Well, I sat in the dinghy
taking pictures).
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11/3 |
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Happy 37th Birthday to our daughter, Stacie.
Enjoy.....We Love
You. |
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This is another holiday for Panama and there is a celebration on the
islands, so Deux Pieds, Glide and Valentina are going to pull up
anchors this morning at 9 a.m. and head to Nargana together.
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After we all arrived at Nargana, we dropped our
dinghies and scooted into town for the festivities. The
streets were decorated with banners, palm frons, balloons, and flags.
A very festive atmosphere, but no fiesta. They told us it
would start at 4 or 5 p.m. So we returned to our boats for
a rest. We went in town at 4 p.m. and were told it would
begin at 7 pm. So we waited. Finally, we were told
the person in charge of the fiesta had drank too much and it would
begin in the morning. So.......Maņana......
The local school here has wireless internet....if you sit on the
steps. So, we are trying to download our website, but not sure
it was successful.

So, we all returned to S/V Deux Pieds for a few games of farkle.
What fun! We had our own fiesta.....and, the girls won
!
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11/4 |
We went into town this morning, early, and
people were all dressed and gathering for the big parade beginning in
Corazon de Jesus.
There are two small
island villages joined by a new walking bridge. The
village names are Corazon de Jesus (heart of Jesus) and Rio Diablo
(river of devil) which is now called Nargana. The parade
began around the basketball court and circled it several times, then
went across the bridge to Nargana, and each group performed on the
concrete at the high school.
The drums played very loudly and very
repetitious. Same beat, over and over and....over. We could
dream of it in our sleep.
Each group, mostly children, were dressed in
their costumes and very nice.
 After the
festivities, we bought some diesel to top off our tank ($4.50 a
gallon). Then, all three boats pulled up anchors and headed to Esnasdup. Our home..... |
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11/5 |
Sonny, Roberto, and Dennis and Pam went snorkeling this morning while
Any (nursing her foot) and Kay (nursing her eyes) stayed on board our
boats. Roberto returned to Deux Pieds around noon, and called me on
the VHF. They decided to have a picnic on the beautiful
island, so I packed up some chicken, made a salad, and packed drinks
and headed to the island for a barbeque.
It tasted wonderful! Any brought her famous potato tortilla,
which was such a treat. But, it started raining, so Sonny
had to return to Valentina (quickly) to shut our hatches.
We gathered on Deux Pieds again this evening for another round of
farkle. Kay won! |
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11/6 |
This morning, it was time for some boat chores, before we could go
play. We double-checked our tank tender in our diesel
tank. Our display said we used over 1/2 a tank
of diesel from Cartagena to here, but we did not feel that was right.
So, Sonny checked it, and sure enough, it had gotten stuck.
We have almost a full tank, after adding 10 gallons at Nargana.
Whew! Time to go play!

We all went in the dinghies to the beautiful island and burned
trash and cleaned up the island. Dennis did not have a
spear gun, so we loaned him one of ours, and he said, "My next
fish....will be my first fish!" Well, that little
fisherman shot four fish on his first day! Awesome!
He is hooked now.
He prepared his catch into fish cakes, and we enjoyed them on S/V
Glide to celebrate his catch. |
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11/7 |


This morning, on the net, Dennis asked if anyone had a spear gun for
sale. After discussing it, Sonny and I decided to sell him the
one he borrowed from us. Pam said it was an early
Christmas present for him. We are excited for him.
Deux Pieds left this morning for Porvenir to get a zarpe, and
Valentina and Glide pulled up anchors and headed to Gunboat island,
about 3 hours away.

We are going to the Robinson Cays tomorrow, to
reunite with Ingi, a Kuna girl we met last year.

Upon our arrival at Gunboat, a ulu rowed out to Valentina with a Kuna
lady, a man, and a young boy. The Kuna lady exclaimed,
"Valentina......Sonny!" She remembered us last year
from Checheme. Wow....it was cool. We
remembered her and her son also. We told her we would come
ashore to see them (and their molas) in about 30 minutes.

Later, her brothers rowed out to Valentina in their ulu selling
fish. We bought four nice fish, for $3. Sonny
cleaned them, then used some for bait.
He put a baited hook over the side, when we heard a fish, we jumped up
to see. No fish, but our hook was straightened out.
So, Sonny put a BIG hook on the line and more bait. About five
minutes later, we heard a noise, jumped up, and we are the proud
owners of a 6' nurse shark. It is dark, so we are just
going to keep him swimming around our boat tonight, and deal with him
in the morning. |
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11/8 |
After babysitting our shark on our line all night.....we just checked
on him a couple of times during the night. He was swimming
in circles...all night. At 6 a.m. we decided to ask the Kuna guys if
they wanted to clean the shark for us for $5 and they can keep some of
the meat. They were excited!

The Kunas came out to Valentina in their ulu and pulled him into
their ulu with them to take it to the island to clean him.
After several hours, a dull machete, and two tired Kunas, we had
the meat in zip-lock bags, ready for the freezer. A well
spent $5.

We gave them a chunk of meat, but they really wanted the shark fins
and skin.
We soaked our meat in salt water to help it not have an ammonia taste.
Then, at 8:30 a.m. we pulled up anchor, along with Dennis and Pam
on S/V Glide, and headed to the Carti Islands about two hours away.
There is a doctor there, and Sonny and I both have sore throats and
want to get some medicine, before we head out to Bocas del Toro soon.
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We both saw the young doctor (28 years old), and he gave both of us a prescription
for Ibuprofen and antibiotics.
Our total bill was $20. So well worth it. |
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Then, we pulled up anchors and headed about two hours away to the
Robison Cays, where Ingi and her Aunt Florene live. Of
course, for more molas!

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We are having Ingi make us a Valentina mola and we will pick it up
in 4 months, when we return to San Blas. |
We came back to Valentina after being on the island all afternoon.
We fried some of our shark....and....it was.....delicious!
Very, very good! |
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11/9 |
We had many visitors to the boat in their ulus
selling molas, fish, crab, lobster, limes, etc. We gave
each of the children some candy.
Sonny could have started a business charging cell phones for them.
We had three cell phones at one time charging on Valentina.
They have no power at all on their island, and their cell phones are
their lifelines to communicate to their families and friends on the
other islands.
Ingi does have a solar panel that she uses to charge her phone.
We went into shore to talk to Ingi and I took four big bags of
stuff for her family off our boat. The older women love
old eye glasses. With the intricate handwork on the molas,
it is necessary for them to see.
Then, up came the anchors again and we headed to the West Lemon Cays to
reunite with Roberto and Any on Deux Pieds.
We had dinner together and played farkle on Deux Pieds. Fun
night.....until the chitras arrived. During the night, the wind
died, and the bugs came alive. All three boats got
very
little sleep and voted unanimously to depart early in the morning.
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11/10 |
Glide left early, then Deux Pieds and Valentina came about an hour
later. We talked to Chris Parker, the weather guru we
subscribe to, for a weather forecast to head west towards Colon.
He said we would have NW winds for the next few days. So,
we will relax in the East Lemon Cays a day or two and hopefully, feel
100% before heading out.

Demetrio came by in his ulu asking if we
wanted lobster or crab. He said the large lobsters are $2
and small ones are $1. We told him we would like some
large ones and he said he would return at about 1 p.m. with them.

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Some other fishermen came by in an ulu selling a very large
snapper. We bought him for $6. They even cleaned it for
us. |
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11/11 |
When the bread is hot and ready, you can hear the conch horn on the
nearby island.
So, when we heard it, we got in our dinghy and went to the bread island.
Kuna bread is so good. Torpedo shaped bread about 8 inches long.
The price has increased to $.15 each. They were $.10 last
year.

We went over to S/V Sapphire this evening, along with S/V Blue
Print and S/V Deux Pieds. Then, we went over to Deux Pieds for
some of Any's delicious fish. |
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11/12 |
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Happy 1st
Birthday
to
Shea
Taylor Sisson
Our newest
grand-daughter.
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We pulled up anchor, along with Roberto and Any on Deux Pieds, at 6:15
a.m. headed for Linton, Panama. It is 40 miles away, so we
should be there by 3 p.m. |
Forecast is for NE winds at 10-15, and it
started out north winds, but, as we are headed west, the winds, of
course, clocked around to the west, so we motored all day.

We arrived at 2:15 p.m. In this anchorage, we found old
friends, Joel and Patricia on S/V Brahms (with the baby grand piano on
board), Owen and Betty on S/V Hiatus, and Sandy on S/V Little Bit.
It is so nice, everywhere you go, you know people. |
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11/13 |
It is a nice, calm, peaceful day in Linton. We are still not
feeling very well, so we are just resting today. We
did not even get the dinghy down (that is very unusual!). Roberto and
Any are headed to Colon, so they left early this morning. |
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11/14 |
After checking weather reports very early this morning, we decided to
go ahead and go straight to Bocas del Toro from Linton. In the
next week, some lows and cold fronts are coming in, so we will just
head straight there. It
is about 156 miles and a 35 hour trip. Not fun....but
there is a full moon tonight, and we should pass all of the Panama
Canal ship traffic early in the day.
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So, we pulled up the anchor and headed out.
It was a dark, dreary morning with rain on the horizon. |
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The seas were lumpy; the current was against us; and, the wind, of
course, turned on our nose. But, hopefully things will get better, the closer we get to Bocas. |
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The night-time is so pleasant with the full moon. It is a
very clear night, no squalls or ships are even showing up on our 36 mile
radar, at the moment. Nice! The chart says it is 3,104
feet deep here. Not sure I want to dive down to verify
that. ; )

Owen on S/V Hiatus met us for a 9 p.m. check in tonight on the SSB
to check on us while we are underway. He is a good guy and a fellow Texan. |
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11/15 |
It is 2:45 a.m. and we are 62.4 n/miles to Bocas. The
chartplotter is saying we should arrive in 15 1/2 hours at our current
speed. That will be getting close to dark.
Maybe we will be able to make up some time, if the current changes in our
favor. We continued on.....at only 3 1/2 to 4 knots. What a
slow....long trip! We normally go 5-7 knots, but the wind
is on our nose, and the strong current is against us the whole way.
Not fun.
As we neared Bocas del Toro, our speed started picking up.
We finally were getting some current with us. Within one hour of
Bocas, we got up to 6 and 7
knots.
We decided to follow our tracks on our chartplotter to weave around
the islands to go to a Bastimentos anchorage. It was dark
when we dropped anchor. A good night's sleep was awaiting
us.
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11/16 |
Happy Birthday to our sweet friend, Karen on S/V Bear Necessity.
We wish you salty water in your future.

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11/17 |
We are resting up after our crossing from Linton and doing projects on
the boat.

Sonny replaced the motor in our electric head today.
The other motor still works...just makes noise, so we put a new motor
on. He 'is' still a plumber, sometimes.
We decided to get off the boat awhile today, so we walked across
the island to Red Frog Beach today. It was a rainy, windy day,
so we came back to Valentina and ate lunch.
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11/18 |
We went to the Bocas del Toro anchorage and checked into Panama.
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Our fees were: |
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Immigration: |
$25.00 |
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Port Captain: |
$20.00 |
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Launcha for them to come to our boat: |
$15.00 |
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Quarantine Inspection: |
$18.00 |
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Cruising Permit for Valentina for 3 months: |
$69.00 |
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Immigration Stamps: $25.00 (We were each supposed to get
a $10 and a $5 at the bank for each of us, but the bank was not
aware of the $5. So we purchased one (the only one he had) from
Lou, the immigration guy. |
$25.00 |
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Our total check in fees were:
One boat checked in at Colon and their fees were
$242. |
$172.00 |

Panama is different from other countries. You cannot freely travel
within the country on your boat. You have to get a zarpe
for each area, and check in and out at each of the four different
areas. And, the rules change almost daily.
We went to bed at 8 p.m. and by 11 p.m. our feet hit the ground at
the same time. (Hard to do from 'our' v-berth). The
wind began howling and continued all night. The anchorage
does not have good holding and boats are notoriously dragging.
So, Kay could not sleep and stayed in the cockpit all night, watching.
Another long night. The wind was a constant 20 - 38
mph all night. |
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11/19 |
After the sun finally came up, we were listening to the local net on
the VHF radio. Chuck, from Bocas Marina, said there was an
earthquake last night on the Panama/Costa Rica border.
It was 6.2 and only 60 miles away from us. People on land
in Bocas definitely felt it in their homes, but we were rocking around
so much in the anchorage, you would have never known it. The weather
report is more of the same for about another week.
What a dreary day.....the wind is howling, the rain is blowing, and the anchorage is rough and the boats
are rocking. No one is even getting their dinghies down,
the water is too rough. I prepared a
big pot of soup and we stayed on the boat and rested and played
farkle.
We did get some sleep that night though. It was still very rocky
and rolly, but we would just
wake up and look out every hour to check the boats around us. |
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11/20 |
When we woke up and it was reasonable calm. The wind was down to 20
knots, so we lowered the dinghy, and went to Careening Cay Marina,
about a mile away, in the rain to see our spot we previously reserved for Dec. 1. Mary told us we could
come in to the marina early, if we wanted to. "We wanted to!" So, we headed back, pulled up
the anchor on Valentina and are now safely tucked into the marina with
lines holding us and protected from other boats. Rest at
last! ☻

Bad weather is supposed to continue for another
week. So, as Sonny says almost everywhere we go......we are "just so glad to
be here" (in the marina).

Tonight, is potluck at the marina. We we prepared chicken
alfredo and enjoyed dinner with our new friends at the marina.
But, we all about froze! It is raining, the wind is
blowing....and...it is down to 75 degrees!
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11/21 |
Wow.....we are back in the land of communications. Very,
very different, but nice. At the marina, we have:
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Wireless Internet |
We have not had that on the boat in a long time.
We can use Skype and update the website daily. We are
currently on internet overload. We are on our laptops
a lot on these rainy days.! |
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110 Power |
We can use our icemaker, laptops and lights at
leisure. |
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Rain |
It has rained, non-stop for the past 6 days, so our
water tanks are full. |
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Washing Machine |
A washing machine at the marina, so we do not have
to hand wash our clothes. |
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Television |
There is even a TV in the palapa that we could
watch. (Now that has been a very, very long time). 18
months ago when we were in the States, I believe.
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It may sound like we have been deprived by not having all the
modern 'stuff', but, we really prefer the simple lifestyle.
We listen to the news every morning on our SSB, so we can keep up with
the situation in the world. Sometimes, it is better to
hang our heads in the sand and not know.
I checked our satellite weather on the internet, and here is where
we are:

You can click to enlarge the map, but the blue
circle at the bottom, we are to the left of it, so more rain is headed
our way. We are just thankful we went ahead and came
all the way here from Linton, rather than stopping along the way. |
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We are safe and snug in the marina preparing Valentina for our trip
home for three months. We are equalizing our batteries
today. We have another grandbaby due, our 9th! We are excited
to be there for it and our other 6 grand-daughters and 2 grand-sons.
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Gentry and Jennifer Our
newest grandbaby is due Dec. 10th
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11/25 |
Well, so much for communication.....for the past three days, Bocas del
Toro has had no communications with the outside world, except for SSB
radios. The towers for the internet and cell phones are out.
That means ATM's, ticket counters at the small airport, etc.
People are stocking up on food, so supplies in the grocery stores are
running low. Gasoline will not be available for a while.
 It is just crazy. This Low that is sitting over us has
caused such havoc. But, we are safe and sound in the marina. |
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11/26 |
The confusion continues, but we do have cell phone and
internet today.
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11/27 |
It is Thanksgiving Day. We went over to Bocas Marina for
their Thanksgiving dinner. The marina supplies the turkey,
dressing, and mashed potatoes and everyone else brings a dish to
share. There were 90 people there. A lot of food, very
nice.
We came back to our marina in time to see the last half of the
Dallas Cowboy game. |
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Happy Thanksgiving from Valentina.
We are so thankful for so much.
We wish you a very good day and a thankful heart.
We have so much to be thankful for.
♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥
♥ ♥ ♥ |
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11/28 |
We are continuing do projects to get the boat ready
to leave.
Mack and Mary of Carerena Marina had everyone at their house for
potluck dinner tonight. And....pecan and pumpkin pies!
What a treat!
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11/30 |
The island is drying up some from the rain, so we went walking around.
It is a very poor community, with resorts on the east side of the
island.
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Top of Page
or on to
"December in Bocas del Toro"
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by
the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did do.
So, throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor.
Catch the trade winds in your sails."
Explore. Dream. Discover.
- Mark Twain |