After four wonderful months of enjoying the beauty of the San Blas
Islands (recently renamed Kuna Yala by the new Panamanian President) we
are heading toward Cartagena, Colombia.
We left the tranquility of
Green Island this morning and sailed to Snug Island, about 25 miles
away. The anchorage is a little rolly due to the current and the
wind in different directions.
Rich and Jan on S/V Slip Away are traveling with us.
We arrived and dropped anchor at Snug Harbor at 2 p.m. A
local named Daleon rowed up to us in his ulu and promised to bring us
bread in the morning before we leave.
8/2
After receiving our bread, we pulled up anchors and motored between the islands,
and headed towards
Ustupu. It was a very nice sail, with the wind on our
beam. We are using the waypoints from the Bauhaus Panama Guide
traveling near and around the many reefs.
We heard S/V Blow Me Away
on the VHF radio this morning and they are at Achitupu, so we are
changing plans. We are stopping and spending one night at
Achitupu to reunite with old friends.
After anchoring and securing the boat, we walked around the island
of Achitupu. The kids were very friendly.
Then at 5 p.m., Blow Me Away invited all the boats in the anchorage
to their boat. The other boats are Better Days, Wind Dancer,
Slip Away and Valentina. It was good to meet the new people.
They are all headed west and Slip Away and us are headed east.
But, out paths will most likely cross again.
8/3
Another short sail today, we went from Achitupu to Ustupu.
After
anchoring, we went in to the island. We had met several friends
previously when we were here, 15 months ago.
We visited with Romelo and Messalina and their three boys.
Romelo came out to the boat this afternoon to visit.
We saw the baby that was named after Sonny, when we were here
before and he is 15 months old now, walking around.
He? We understood when we were here before that it was a girl,
but when we saw him this time, without a diaper on, he is definitely a
boy.
His momma spotted us walking down the path and started beaming and
ran to get baby Sonny for us to see. She is now a single
mom, as the father has already left for another island.
There was also a S/V Queen Mary mola on the island that one of the
Kuna women has made. Brenda (Queen Mary) had emailed us
and wanted us to get the mola if we found it. And,
we did.
8/4
Today, we are going from Ustupu to Nonomulu.
Rich talked to Chris
Parker, a weather guru, and Chris said that in two more days, we
should have a pretty good window to head to Colombia.
But, plans are always written in sand when you are cruising.
When we got near the island of Isla Pinos, Sonny called Rich and
Jan and said he was going to stick our nose out in the open water to
see how it feels. Rich and Jan agreed.
After our nose got wet, we decided to go ahead and head towards
Cartagena. The seas were 6-8', but on the forward beam, and not
uncomfortable. We had enough wind we could both sail, so new
plans are being made.
We sailed 13 hours with nice wind and seas. Then the wind
started clocking around to the nose, and we motored for 10 hours, then
sailed 2 more and we were in the Bay of Cholon, about 15 miles south
of Cartagena.
The Bay of Cholon is like home to us. We spent several
months here last time and probably will again. It is
beautiful and totally protected with clean water, much unlike the
anchorage in Cartagena.
We saw Robert and Carmen and his new shrimp boat he
is refitting.
8/5
It is time to renew our Colombian phone, so we are headed to the big
city of Baru. It is about a five mile trip by dinghy, through
the mangrove channels. Baru is a very poor community, a
peninsula on the mainland of Colombia. There are no banks,
cars, or internet cafes here. But there are some very friendly
people.
While we were in Baru, we stopped by to see Edgar and Angela at our
favorite tienda. We buy our phone cards from them.
Then, we were on another street, and Kathy Kay, our 13 year old
friend, ran up to Sonny with a big smile and hugged him. She was
just getting out of school. She walked around with us, then we
gave her a ride near her home in our dinghy.
A beautiful girl
who
steals our
hearts.
At another tienda, we were buying small plastic bags that we tie up
and use for making ice. When we were leaving a man called,
"Sonny!" We turned around and it was Peio. We knew
him when we were here before.
Roberto and Carmen
invited the boats in the anchorage up to their house for a pot luck
dinner. Kate and DJ (S/V Hello World), Josie and Jeff (S/V
Stravaig), Rich and Jan (S/V Slip Away) and Christo and Olga (S/V
Serena).
We received a telephone call this morning, and our friend is at his
home in the Bay. He invited us to come over for breakfast with
him. We had arapas and a nice visit with him. So good to
reunite with old friends.
Our handle on our outboard motor on our
dinghy broke off a few days ago. So, Sonny worked on it today.
The stainless steel 3/8" shaft to accelerate the motor broke, so, he
drilled a hole in the shaft and placed a pin in. Now it works
perfectly again.
We talked to Paul on S/V Lizzy Jean this morning on the net.
They have just come from Sapzurro to San Bernardo, right behind us.
But, last night they had a storm pass through and had 5-6' seas on
anchor.
We gave them waypoints to get into the Bay of Cholon for a tranquil
anchorage.
Rob and Paul are both 27 year old guys
from Canada who bought a sailboat in Panama, a month later, set out
cruising, having never sailed before. They are doing great and
now in Colombia with us.
8/8
This is just a wonderful anchorage.....so
beautiful, peaceful and still. Feels like you are at
home in your bed.
Oh....we are. ; )
8/9
We swim a lot at the boat here. It gets hot and not much
wind, so by 6:30 a.m. we are in the water for the first time of the
day. We usually get in at least twice more during the day.
8/11
After a dinghy trip to Baru to buy a telephone card, we all went up to Robert and Carmen's to
enjoy the beautiful sunset view.
8/13
A good day.....Sonny took Kay to the dock and she went on the local
bus this morning at 5 a.m. to Cartagena. It is about a two
hour trip, very rough, bumpy, and exciting.
She picked up a new
modem for us to have wireless internet on the boat 24/7.
We are just so excited. After being in San Blas since
March with 'no' internet to having in on board....I am afraid our
project list will be put on hold for a few days until we get our fix
of it.
We have Skype and a camera, so we can call our kids and grandkids
and talk.....and see them.....for free. Just awesome!
And, we can update the website anytime! Just too cool.
Yes, we are excited. It doesn't take much to make our day,
does it? A simple life.
Kay returned on the bus, departing Cartagena at 12 and arriving
back near the boat at 3 p.m. The bus was so full of supplies, 50
pound bags of rice stacked up, coconuts, lumber and whatever else
would fit inside.
We stayed up late talking to the girls and getting
caught up with the latest news in their families.
Today, we replaced some of the snaps on our enclosure that had come
off. And....listened to KBEC (our local radio station in
Waxahachie, TX)
Tonight, we got a call on Skype (through our
computer). It was our son Garrett. He had been
on vacation with his wife Madonna and our grand-daughter Kylie in
Hawaii to visit Madonna's family, then stopped in Maryland for a few
days to see some more of her family.
They took the kids to a park to play, when Kylie
fell down off the monkey bars. She broke bones in her upper and
lower left arm. After surgery, three pins and a rod, she
is out of the hospital recovering.
It was wonderful to be able to see her, using Skype with our
camera on our computer and talk to her, check out her x-rays, and her
new cast. And, see that she is OK, and mom and dad are
doing OK too.
I think it was harder on them than Kylie.
Get well Kylie!
Check out a tour of Cartagena above from YouTube.
8/15
We have sure enjoyed our time again with Robert and
Carmen, here in the Bay of Cholon. They are very busy,
working on their house and now, Robert's dream, refitting a shrimp
boat to a fun family boat.
8/16
This weekend, our friends from Cartagena are at their vacation home in
the Bay. It is so good to see them again.
We pulled
Valentina up to their dock so they could all come on board and see a
sailboat. We had a 'boatload' of good people!
Have we mentioned lately how much we love our solar panels and
batteries? They are wonderful! We have been here, almost
two weeks, using the laptop all day (with internet, of course) using
the watermaker, and one afternoon, even used our big icemaker.
We have not had to charge our batteries at all.
We have an update on our grand-daughter, Kylie. And,
thankfully, she is doing good, already back to school.
8/18
This afternoon, Sonny went to Jaime's dock to pick up Maria and
Minerva. They are locals who own a small tienda nearby
that we frequent and they had never been on a sailboat.
8/19
This morning, we took our dinghy, through the two mangrove tunnels, to
the small village of Baru, probably about 4 miles away.
You can find minimal food stapels in Baru, and we needed some potatoes, tomatoes, and onions. Also, they make little loaves of bread for
$.25 each. Perfect for a sandwich, and....delicious.
After we returned to
the boat, we met with Barne, a local wood craftsman. He
hand carves fish, coral, and marine life out of a piece of ceiba wood.
We found a perfect spot where we can display his wood art in our
settee. It should take him about 5 days to complete.
It costs $80 mil (or around $40 US).
We sure have enjoyed Skype. Tonight, we talked to Rob
and Donna Bartley, old friends from Lake Texoma. It is so good
to hear their voices; it has been a very long time.
A Map of Colombia
Colombia's Flag:
According to the current interpretation, the colors
signify:
Yellow:
represents all the gold found in the Colombian land.
Red:
represents the blood spilled on the battlegrounds by the heroes
who gained Colombia's freedom.
8/20
Today we took the dinghy and snorkeled around Parakeeto Island.
It is a couple of miles from the boat, and visibility was not very
clear, but it was good to be back snorkeling.
There were no fish
though, for eating. But, some pretty ones to look at.
Guess what we did today? We watched two movies and a Dallas
Cowboy game. The first in their new stadium, and, the Cowboys even won.
We have not watched football since we have been cruising, so that was
a real treat. Normally, to have internet, we have to go to
a big city or town that has an internet cafe.
8/22
This morning, we began by cleaning on the bottom of the dinghy while
it was still up on the arch, then we began cleaning on the hull. Our
thru hull spouts, where
water comes from our engine and generator, tend to get rusty, so it was
time for some TLC.
Sonny waxed the bimini and cleaned on the prop,
while I cleaned on the hull.
While landlubbers, we mowed grass, but
on Valentina....we clean the hull. A fair trade but we would
rather be in the water while working.
We went up to Roberto and
Carmen's house for dinner and watch the sunset. Being at
his house on top of the hill, we could see rain coming. So, we
scurried down the hill back to Valentina. Only to find,
the rain skirted around us. We were wanting to gather rain
water....maybe manaņa.
8/23
Today we continued our cleaning on the hull and dinghy.
We received
a call from our friends that had come down to their house from
Cartagena. We dinghied over and enjoyed the day with them,
swimming and eating lobster and crab.
8/24
When the wind picked up (a little), we pulled up the anchor and headed
to Cartagena. It is about 15 miles away, and we just had a
very casual sail with about 6-8 knots of wind.
It took us about 4
hours, but we needed to run the water maker on the way before we
arrived in the dirty Cartagena Bay. We do not run our
watermaker while we are on anchor there. If we have
to stay longer than 3 days, Sonny will flush the watermaker system
with water we have made, rather than use the Bay water.
Here is a picture of the change in the color of the
sea water as it meets the Cartagena water. We were
still several miles out to sea. We have seen it much
worse in rainy season.
Cartagena on the horizon......
After anchoring, we went ashore to the Club Nautico marina.
They are completely tearing down the existing buildings and building
new ones and some new docks. It is a total mess right now
though.
No water
No showers
No washing machines
We went to find an ATM machine, some ice cream and dinner.
Don't you like our priorities? After being away from
any restaurants (and did I say ice cream?) for five months, we are
ready to indulge. And, it was delicious! Double dips of
chocolate..... ; )
8/25
Ahh....Beautiful Cartagena.....the old city with its old cathedrals,
cobble stone streets, cultural museums, street vendors, emeralds, and friendly locals.
But, to us, Cartagena is do three weeks of work in five days. We
love the old city and the culture, but not the anchorage. So,
when we come into Cartagena, we begin early in the morning and run,
run, run, until we finally get to relax in our cockpit at sunset to
admire the sun set over the skyscrapers.
This morning, we took our propane tank in to get refilled, then we
talked to Edder about getting a new mattress made for our v-berth,
and searched for Tuttie to arrange some woodwork.
Then, at 8:30 a.m. we walked a couple of miles to the beauty shop
and both of us got haircuts. The total price was $8,000
mil. That is $4 US for both of us. I got my money's
worth, mine is pretty short.
Then we continued our walk to the clinic for physicals and EKG for
new health insurance.
We stopped to eat at our favorite restaurant, La Carretta.
You get a lunch plate of meat or chicken, salad, rice and cooked
plantains with a big bowl of soup for $3.25.
After lunch, we re-charged our modem for internet for a month at the
local grocery store.
Then,
we met Edder at our boat and he took some measurements of our v-berth
and we explained to him what we would like. We all piled
in a taxi and headed to a local factory and he began talking very
rapidly in Spanish to the workers. He told us the price,
which was very reasonable and we agreed to proceed on with the
project.
Edder is going to come tomorrow to make a pattern of our v-berth
then take it to them. We are using 4" of firm foam with 2" of soft foam
on top, then covered in a mattress cover. Valentina's v-berth
was ready for a new mattress, and we were too.
Then we came back to the boat and enjoyed the business of the
anchorage, watching boats and dinghies come to and fro. A
boat came in loaded with 8 backpackers who were anxious to get their
feet on land. They now are charging backpackers $375 p/p
to bring them from Panama to Cartagena. That includes their
immigration and custom fees, their food, and their travel.
Multiply that times 8 and it makes for a nice trip. Not for us,
though.
Up early, we have to go do our blood work before we eat or drink
anything. So, we left the boat around 6:30 a.m.
Walked a couple of blocks to catch the bus to Boca Grande. We
got off near, where we thought the laboratory was located.
We began asking locals, and walked and walked....and, walked.
They will always give you a friendly answer, it just may not be
correct. Finally, at 7:30, we arrived.
After donating
our blood, we were told to return at 5:30 p.m. today for the results.
It is amazing, you get your results the same day here!
We walked a couple of miles to Old Town and found the store Ken on
S/V Makai told us about, to buy a small amplifier for Sonny's
harmonicas.
On our way to lunch, we heard Beseeta.
We have not seen her for a year, and when she saw us in the
distance, she began calling, "Mi amore! Mi amigos!"
We met Edder at our boat to make a pattern
for our new mattress.
We were anxiously awaiting our blood test results, as they tested
39 different things for our insurance request. But, we are so
very thankful for our good health. Everything, of the 39
items tested, came back very good on both of us. We
breathed a sigh of relief with thankful hearts. Maybe eating our
oatmeal every morning and a healthy lifestyle is paying off for us.
To continue the cruising lifestyle, our health is of utmost
importance. So, when we have any test run, we are always
somewhat nervous, until we receive the results, as we know how quickly
our plans can change.
8/28
We met Tootie today at the marina and brought him out to the boat.
He is our favorite local wood worker. We wanted to have
him make us a table for our cockpit with drink holders and a place for
our binoculars. He used cardboard cartons for a
pattern and began measuring and cutting the cardboard. He said
it would take a week to make it.
The Port Captain made rounds to several boats today in the
anchorage. We were one of the boats he visited because we are
anchored outside the boundary of the designated anchoring area. So, we moved
further inside.
Near Old Town in
Cartagena, hundreds of people were out flying kites.
This scene went on for miles, all lined up around
the wall to the city.
We walked to Home Center to complete our list of stuff we needed
for the boat.
8/29
This afternoon a storm passed through and filled our 100 gallon water
tank....just in time. Are we living right, or what? We
are so thankful!
Cartagena is not a good anchorage for a storm.
Boats drag. Fortunately, the owners of the catamaran in
front of us were on board when the storm hit. They did
drag, but pulled up their anchor before they got us.
Sonny brought our new mattress back to the boat and we are very
pleased with it.
We probably did not need to sew a
zipper (black) between the two pieces, as the fit is pretty snug.
8/30
We can finally head back to the Bay of Cholon. Projects
completed. Well, kind of. When Tootie finishes our
cockpit table, we will come back to Cartagena for the day.
But,
early this morning, we went to the local grocery store and did some
provisioning so we can hang out in the islands for a few months.
Then, at 10:30 a.m. we pulled up anchor and headed
for Cholon. We tried to sail, but the wind was on our
nose. So, we motor-sailed.
It is good to be home. We started to
re-write the words to John Denver's song, "Hey, it good to be back
in Cholon again...."
8/31
We jumped out of bed this morning, I washed our clothes and hung them
out on the line while Sonny got in the water and started cleaning the
bottom of the boat from Cartagena crud. Then, I jumped in the
water and cleaned the top of the water line.
Then, I made a big pot
of vegetable soup and some guacamole dip for later.
Then, we looked at the clock....and it was 10:15 a.m.
Whew...what a good morning.
It just feels so good to be back.
We talked to our youngest son, Gentry and our grand-daughter Bailee
tonight for the first time on Skype. They have a new
computer, with a camera, so we could see our youngest grandbaby.