Home    Back   Contact Us               Go To:  8/7   8/14  8/21   8/27

 

August 2009

Eastern San Blas, Panama

to

Colombia

Just how awesome is this?
   
8/1 After four wonderful months of enjoying the beauty of the San Blas Islands (recently renamed Kuna Yala by the new Panamanian President) we are heading toward Cartagena, Colombia.

We left the tranquility of Green Island this morning and sailed to Snug Island, about 25 miles away.  The anchorage is a little rolly due to the current and the wind in different directions. 

Rich and Jan on S/V Slip Away are traveling with us.

On our way....

We arrived and dropped anchor at Snug Harbor at 2 p.m.  A local named Daleon rowed up to us in his ulu and promised to bring us bread in the morning before we leave.

Time to move on....

8/2 After receiving our bread, we pulled up anchors and motored between the islands, and headed towards Ustupu.   It was a very nice sail, with the wind on our beam.  We are using the waypoints from the Bauhaus Panama Guide traveling near and around the many reefs.

We heard S/V Blow Me Away on the VHF radio this morning and they are at Achitupu, so we are changing plans.   We are stopping and spending one night at Achitupu to reunite with old friends.

After anchoring and securing the boat, we walked around the island of Achitupu.  The kids were very friendly.

Their stick horses...two pieces of wood they hold together Some of the kids on the island with us. A future model? A one month old baby boy on the island Isn't she cute?  Check out her "gold" earrings.

Then at 5 p.m., Blow Me Away invited all the boats in the anchorage to their boat.  The other boats are Better Days, Wind Dancer, Slip Away and Valentina.  It was good to meet the new people.  They are all headed west and Slip Away and us are headed east.  But, out paths will most likely cross again.

8/3 Another short sail today, we went from Achitupu to Ustupu.

A typical Colombian trading boat      The local Colombian trading boat is "full" of coconuts they buy from the Kunas for $.15 each.

After anchoring, we went in to the island.  We had met several friends previously when we were here, 15 months ago.

We visited with Romelo and Messalina and their three boys.  Romelo came out to the boat this afternoon to visit.Introducing Rich to Romelo

We saw the baby that was named after Sonny, when we were here before and he is 15 months old now, walking around.    He?  We understood when we were here before that it was a girl, but when we saw him this time, without a diaper on, he is definitely a boy.

Momma, Sonny and Sonny His momma spotted us walking down the path and started beaming and ran to get baby Sonny for us to see.   She is now a single mom, as the father has already left for another island. Two Sonny's

 

There was also a S/V Queen Mary mola on the island that one of the Kuna women has made.   Brenda (Queen Mary) had emailed us and wanted us to get the mola if we found it.    And, we did.

They dressed Kay in Kuna tradition.  Can you tell which one I am?  This family was very friendly.  They gave us some limes and mangos.  ...After we bought molas and gave them glasses.

Boys having fun....     Happy kids..

8/4 Today, we are going from Ustupu to Nonomulu.

Rich talked to Chris Parker, a weather guru, and Chris said that in two more days, we should have a pretty good window to head to Colombia.

But, plans are always written in sand when you are cruising.

When we got near the island of Isla Pinos, Sonny called Rich and Jan and said he was going to stick our nose out in the open water to see how it feels.   Rich and Jan agreed.

Rich and Jan of S/V Slip Away

After our nose got wet, we decided to go ahead and head towards Cartagena.  The seas were 6-8', but on the forward beam, and not uncomfortable.  We had enough wind we could both sail, so new plans are being made.

We sailed 13 hours with nice wind and seas.  Then the wind started clocking around to the nose, and we motored for 10 hours, then sailed 2 more and we were in the Bay of Cholon, about 15 miles south of Cartagena.

Slip Away, Rich and Jan along beside us

The Bay of Cholon is like home to us.   We spent several months here last time and probably will again.   It is beautiful and totally protected with clean water, much unlike the anchorage in Cartagena.

We saw Robert and Carmen and his new shrimp boat he is refitting.Robert's long-time dream has come true.

 

8/5 It is time to renew our Colombian phone, so we are headed to the big city of Baru.  It is about a five mile trip by dinghy, through the mangrove channels.  Baru is a very poor community, a peninsula on the mainland of Colombia.  There are no banks, cars, or internet cafes here.  But there are some very friendly people. 

While we were in Baru, we stopped by to see Edgar and Angela at our favorite tienda.   We buy our phone cards from them.

Then, we were on another street, and Kathy Kay, our 13 year old friend, ran up to Sonny with a big smile and hugged him.  She was just getting out of school.  She walked around with us, then we gave her a ride near her home in our dinghy. 

A beautiful girl who

steals our hearts.

 

At another tienda, we were buying small plastic bags that we tie up and use for making ice.  When we were leaving a man called, "Sonny!"   We turned around and it was Peio.  We knew him when we were here before.

Roberto and Carmen invited the boats in the anchorage up to their house for a pot luck dinner.  Kate and DJ (S/V Hello World), Josie and Jeff (S/V Stravaig), Rich and Jan (S/V Slip Away) and Christo and Olga (S/V Serena).

 Walking to Roberto and Carmen's house.    This hill is a real workout.   But, the view at the top is your reward.

8/7 We received a telephone call this morning, and our friend is at his home in the Bay.  He invited us to come over for breakfast with him.  We had arapas and a nice visit with him.  So good to reunite with old friends.

Our handle on our outboard motor on our dinghy broke off a few days ago.  So, Sonny worked on it today.  The stainless steel 3/8" shaft to accelerate the motor broke, so, he drilled a hole in the shaft and placed a pin in.  Now it works perfectly again.

We talked to Paul on S/V Lizzy Jean this morning on the net.  They have just come from Sapzurro to San Bernardo, right behind us.  But, last night they had a storm pass through and had 5-6' seas on anchor.

Rob and Paul, the new owners of S/V Lizzy Jean

We gave them waypoints to get into the Bay of Cholon for a tranquil anchorage.

Rob and Paul are both 27 year old guys from Canada who bought a sailboat in Panama, a month later, set out cruising, having never sailed before.  They are doing great and now in Colombia with us.

8/8
Sonny enjoying the sunset

This is just a wonderful anchorage.....so beautiful, peaceful and still.   Feels like you are at home in your bed.  

Oh....we are.  ; )

Kay also enjoying the beautiful sunset.
8/9 We swim a lot at the boat here.   It gets hot and not much wind, so by 6:30 a.m. we are in the water for the first time of the day.   We usually get in at least twice more during the day. 
8/11

After a dinghy trip to Baru to buy a telephone card, we all went up to Robert and Carmen's to enjoy the beautiful sunset view.

So good to be home

 

8/13 A good day.....Sonny took Kay to the dock and she went on the local bus this morning at 5 a.m. to Cartagena.   It is about a two hour trip, very rough, bumpy, and exciting.

She picked up a new modem for us to have wireless internet on the boat 24/7.   We are just so excited.   After being in San Blas since March with 'no' internet to having in on board....I am afraid our project list will be put on hold for a few days until we get our fix of it.

We have Skype and a camera, so we can call our kids and grandkids and talk.....and see them.....for free.   Just awesome!

And, we can update the website anytime!  Just too cool.   Yes, we are excited.   It doesn't take much to make our day, does it?   A simple life.

Kay returned on the bus, departing Cartagena at 12 and arriving back near the boat at 3 p.m.  The bus was so full of supplies, 50 pound bags of rice stacked up, coconuts, lumber and whatever else would fit inside.

We stayed up late talking to the girls and getting caught up with the latest news in their families.

8/14 Today, we replaced some of the snaps on our enclosure that had come off.  And....listened to KBEC (our local radio station in Waxahachie, TX)
 

Sonny and Kay on Roberto's shrimp boat....Manatee

Tonight, we got a call on Skype (through our computer).   It was our son Garrett.   He had been on vacation with his wife Madonna and our grand-daughter Kylie in Hawaii to visit Madonna's family, then stopped in Maryland for a few days to see some more of her family.

They took the kids to a park to play, when Kylie fell down off the monkey bars.  She broke bones in her upper and lower left arm.   After surgery, three pins and a rod, she is out of the hospital recovering.

It was wonderful to be able to see her, using Skype with our camera on our computer and talk to her, check out her x-rays, and her new cast.   And, see that she is OK, and mom and dad are doing OK too. 

I think it was harder on them than Kylie.

Grandma with Kylie

Get well Kylie!

 

 

Check out a tour of Cartagena above from YouTube.

8/15
We have sure enjoyed our time again with Robert and Carmen, here in the Bay of Cholon.  They are very busy, working on their house and now, Robert's dream, refitting a shrimp boat to a fun family boat.
8/16 This weekend, our friends from Cartagena are at their vacation home in the Bay.   It is so good to see them again.

We pulled Valentina up to their dock so they could all come on board and see a sailboat.   We had a 'boatload' of good people!

Welcome to our casa...

 

In the cockpit

The other half.

 

Dr. Gilberto and Martha....buenos amigos!

  Sonny getting to show our solar panels.

Have we mentioned lately how much we love our solar panels and batteries?  They are wonderful!  We have been here, almost two weeks, using the laptop all day (with internet, of course) using the watermaker, and one afternoon, even used our big icemaker.  We have not had to charge our batteries at all. 

We have an update on our grand-daughter, Kylie.   And, thankfully, she is doing good, already back to school.

Kylie taking her medicine.

8/18 This afternoon, Sonny went to Jaime's dock to pick up Maria and Minerva.   They are locals who own a small tienda nearby that we frequent and they had never been on a sailboat.
Minerva at the helm. Maria, Minerva, and Kay on Valentina Maria, Sonny and Minerva on the bow.

 

8/19 This morning, we took our dinghy, through the two mangrove tunnels, to the small village of Baru, probably about 4 miles away.   You can find minimal food stapels in Baru, and we needed some potatoes, tomatoes, and onions.   Also, they make little loaves of bread for $.25 each.   Perfect for a sandwich, and....delicious.

After we returned to the boat, we met with Barne, a local wood craftsman.   He hand carves fish, coral, and marine life out of a piece of ceiba wood.  We found a perfect spot where we can display his wood art in our settee.   It should take him about 5 days to complete.   It costs $80 mil (or around $40 US).

We sure have enjoyed Skype.   Tonight, we talked to Rob and Donna Bartley, old friends from Lake Texoma.  It is so good to hear their voices; it has been a very long time.

Colombia, South America A Map of Colombia

    

Colombia's Flag:

 
According to the current interpretation, the colors signify:
  •    Yellow: represents all the gold found in the Colombian land.
  •    Blue: represents the seas on Colombia's shores.
  •    Red: represents the blood spilled on the battlegrounds by the heroes who gained Colombia's freedom.

 

 

8/20 Today we took the dinghy and snorkeled around Parakeeto Island.  It is a couple of miles from the boat, and visibility was not very clear, but it was good to be back snorkeling.

There were no fish though, for eating.  But, some pretty ones to look at.

Sonny in the water..

8/21 Guess what we did today?  We watched two movies and a Dallas Cowboy game.  The first in their new stadium, and, the Cowboys even won.    We have not watched football since we have been cruising, so that was a real treat.   Normally, to have internet, we have to go to a big city or town that has an internet cafe.
8/22 This morning, we began by cleaning on the bottom of the dinghy while it was still up on the arch, then we began cleaning on the hull.  Our thru hull spouts, where water comes from our engine and generator, tend to get rusty, so it was time for some TLC.

Sonny waxed the bimini and cleaned on the prop, while I cleaned on the hull.

While landlubbers, we mowed grass, but on Valentina....we clean the hull.  A fair trade but we would rather be in the water while working.

We went up to Roberto and Carmen's house for dinner and watch the sunset.   Being at his house on top of the hill, we could see rain coming.  So, we scurried down the hill back to Valentina.   Only to find, the rain skirted around us.   We were wanting to gather rain water....maybe  manaņa.  

8/23 Today we continued our cleaning on the hull and dinghy.

We received a call from our friends that had come down to their house from Cartagena.  We dinghied over and enjoyed the day with them, swimming and eating lobster and crab.

8/24 When the wind picked up (a little), we pulled up the anchor and headed to Cartagena.   It is about 15 miles away, and we just had a very casual sail with about 6-8 knots of wind.

It took us about 4 hours, but we needed to run the water maker on the way before we arrived in the dirty Cartagena Bay.   We do not run our watermaker while we are on anchor there.    If we have to stay longer than 3 days, Sonny will flush the watermaker system with water we have made, rather than use the Bay water.

You can see the different color of the water Here is a picture of the change in the color of the sea water as it meets the Cartagena water.   We were still several miles out to sea.   We have seen it much worse in rainy season.

Cartagena on the horizon......

Almost to the beautiful city

After anchoring, we went ashore to the Club Nautico marina.   They are completely tearing down the existing buildings and building new ones and some new docks.   It is a total mess right now though.

The docks No water

No showers

No washing machines

The dinghy dock

We went to find an ATM machine, some ice cream and dinner.   Don't you like our priorities?    After being away from any restaurants (and did I say ice cream?) for five months, we are ready to indulge.  And, it was delicious!  Double dips of chocolate.....  ; )

     
8/25 Ahh....Beautiful Cartagena.....the old city with its old cathedrals, cobble stone streets, cultural museums, street vendors, emeralds, and friendly locals.

But, to us, Cartagena is do three weeks of work in five days.  We love the old city and the culture, but not the anchorage.  So, when we come into Cartagena, we begin early in the morning and run, run, run, until we finally get to relax in our cockpit at sunset to admire the sun set over the skyscrapers.

This morning, we took our propane tank in to get refilled, then we talked to Edder about getting a new mattress made for our v-berth, and searched for Tuttie to arrange some woodwork.

Then, at 8:30 a.m. we walked a couple of miles to the beauty shop and both of us got haircuts.   The total price was $8,000 mil.  That is $4 US for both of us.   I got my money's worth, mine is pretty short.

Then we continued our walk to the clinic for physicals and EKG for new health insurance.

We stopped to eat at our favorite restaurant, La Carretta.   You get a lunch plate of meat or chicken, salad, rice and cooked plantains with a big bowl of soup for $3.25. 

  After lunch, we re-charged our modem for internet for a month at the local grocery store.

Then, we met Edder at our boat and he took some measurements of our v-berth and we explained to him what we would like.   We all piled in a taxi and headed to a local factory and he began talking very rapidly in Spanish to the workers.   He told us the price, which was very reasonable and we agreed to proceed on with the project.

Edder is going to come tomorrow to make a pattern of our v-berth then take it to them.  We are using 4" of firm foam with 2" of soft foam on top, then covered in a mattress cover.  Valentina's v-berth was ready for a new mattress, and we were too.  

Then we came back to the boat and enjoyed the business of the anchorage, watching boats and dinghies come to and fro.   A boat came in loaded with 8 backpackers who were anxious to get their feet on land.   They now are charging backpackers $375 p/p to bring them from Panama to Cartagena.  That includes their immigration and custom fees, their food, and their travel.   Multiply that times 8 and it makes for a nice trip.  Not for us, though.

Diesel currently is 6,100 (or ~ $3.05 US) and

gasoline is 7,490 (or ~ $3.75 US) a gallon.

8/27 Up early, we have to go do our blood work before we eat or drink anything.   So, we left the boat around 6:30 a.m.    Walked a couple of blocks to catch the bus to Boca Grande.  We got off near, where we thought the laboratory was located.   We began asking locals, and walked and walked....and, walked.  They will always give you a friendly answer, it just may not be correct.   Finally, at 7:30, we arrived.

After donating our blood, we were told to return at 5:30 p.m. today for the results.  It is amazing, you get your results the same day here!

This cactus tree has leaves like a Christmas cactus plant.

We walked a couple of miles to Old Town and found the store Ken on S/V Makai told us about, to buy a small amplifier for Sonny's harmonicas.

On our way to lunch, we heard Beseeta.   We have not seen her for a year, and when she saw us in the distance, she began calling, "Mi amore! Mi amigos!"

 

We met Edder at our boat to make a pattern

for our new mattress.

Edder in our v-berth

We were anxiously awaiting our blood test results, as they tested 39 different things for our insurance request.  But, we are so very thankful for our good health.   Everything, of the 39 items tested, came back very good on both of us.   We breathed a sigh of relief with thankful hearts.  Maybe eating our oatmeal every morning and a healthy lifestyle is paying off for us.

To continue the cruising lifestyle, our health is of utmost importance.  So, when we have any test run, we are always somewhat nervous, until we receive the results, as we know how quickly our plans can change.

 

8/28 We met Tootie today at the marina and brought him out to the boat.   He is our favorite local wood worker.   We wanted to have him make us a table for our cockpit with drink holders and a place for our binoculars.    He used cardboard cartons for a pattern and began measuring and cutting the cardboard.  He said it would take a week to make it.

Tootie does not have the expensive tools, but does a great job.

The Port Captain made rounds to several boats today in the anchorage.   We were one of the boats he visited because we are anchored outside the boundary of the designated anchoring area.   So, we moved further inside.

Near Old Town in Cartagena, hundreds of people were out flying kites. What fun!  Makes me want to buy a kite.   We could fly it off of Valentina. This scene went on for miles, all lined up around the wall to the city.

 

We walked to Home Center to complete our list of stuff we needed for the boat.

8/29 This afternoon a storm passed through and filled our 100 gallon water tank....just in time.  Are we living right, or what?   We are so thankful!

Cartagena is not a good anchorage for a storm.  Boats drag.   Fortunately, the owners of the catamaran in front of us were on board when the storm hit.   They did drag, but pulled up their anchor before they got us.

Our mattress....two separate pieces joined with a zipper

Sonny brought our new mattress back to the boat and we are very pleased with it.

We probably did not need to sew a zipper (black) between the two pieces, as the fit is pretty snug.

6" thick.  Four inches hard foam, two inches of soft foam, glued together with a mattress cover sewed on.
8/30 We can finally head back to the Bay of Cholon.  Projects completed.  Well, kind of.   When Tootie finishes our cockpit table, we will come back to Cartagena for the day.

But, early this morning, we went to the local grocery store and did some provisioning so we can hang out in the islands for a few months.

Underway again. Then, at 10:30 a.m. we pulled up anchor and headed for Cholon.   We tried to sail, but the wind was on our nose.  So, we motor-sailed. 

It is good to be home.  We started to re-write the words to John Denver's song, "Hey, it good to be back in Cholon again...."

8/31 We jumped out of bed this morning, I washed our clothes and hung them out on the line while Sonny got in the water and started cleaning the bottom of the boat from Cartagena crud.  Then, I jumped in the water and cleaned the top of the water line.

Then, I made a big pot of vegetable soup and some guacamole dip for later.

Then, we looked at the clock....and it was 10:15 a.m.  Whew...what a good morning.

It just feels so good to be back.

We talked to our youngest son, Gentry and our grand-daughter Bailee tonight for the first time on Skype.   They have a new computer, with a camera, so we could see our youngest grandbaby.

Skype is just wonderful!

How cool is that?

                                       Top of Page     or      "On to September Logs"  

 

Kay's theory after cruising almost four years....."If you can't tie a knot, tie a lot."